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Exhibits include strange sea creatures and the spiffy Silver Bullet, an early s lobster boat. Camping and food available on site, which is strictly alcohol- and drug-free. Lobster Carnival ; www. Hector Festival ; www. Sites 1 to 22 abut the day-use area and are less private; Sites 78 to 95 are gravel and suited for RVs. The rest are wooded and private. Hostel Pictou ; www. Willow House Inn ; www. The owners whip up great breakfasts as well as conversation and tips for what to do around town.

W H Davies House , ; www. Pictou Lodge , ; www. Beautifully renovated ocean-side log cabins have original stone fireplaces. Motel rooms are also available. Customs House Inn ; www. The chunky antique decor is as sturdy and elegant as the walls and many rooms have waterfront views.

Entertainment deCoste Entertainment Centre ; www. Shopping Water Street Studio ; Water St A cooperative begun more than 20 years ago by local craftswomen, this store sells beautiful clothing, jewelry and gifts. Take a tour of the factory where knives for every use are crafted in no less than 53 steps. For more information Click here. The few major local attractions are in Stellarton, a 5km drive away. It overlooks the river and is situated on the bike path.

Choose from salads, sandwiches, homemade pasta and thin-crust pizza. Open in the morning for coffee and snacks, but not breakfast. Try the Thai grilled salmon or pork tenderloin with black mission-fig butter. Reservations are recommended.

Catholic Scots settled and established St Francis Xavier University and today the university still dominates the ambience of the town. Antigonish is known for the Scottish Highland Games held each July since Enter off College St. In the hall, crests of all the Scottish clans that settled this area are displayed.

Those clans gather each July for the Antigonish Highland Games. Evolve www. Locals credit Chef Mark Gabrieau for setting the culinary high-watermark in Antigonish. Around Antigonish POMQUET About 16km east of Antigonish, this tiny Acadian community is on a stunning beach with 13 dunes that keep growing; waves dump the equivalent of more than truckloads of sand on the beach each year.

Many bird species frequent the salt marshes behind the dunes. From a well-marked picnic area close to Cape George Point Lighthouse, a 1km walk leads to the lighthouse itself. Signs at the picnic area also point to longer hikes through forests and coastal areas, including one 32km loop.

Signs at all the trail junctions indicate how long it will take to follow alternate routes. To walk from the wharf to the lighthouse and back again is a 8km trip. A fish-and-chips van parks nearby. It winds and climbs around and over coastal mountains, with heart-stopping ocean views at every turn, moose on the roads watch out!

Celtic Colours www. This is definitely worth a stop: there are few other centers on Cape Breton Island, especially outside of July and August; the staff is very well informed; and one wall is covered with posters advertising square dances and ceilidhs. Pick up a copy of the Inverness Oran, an excellent local weekly that lists most events in the northwest area of Cape Breton Island. Then get on your dancing shoes: this area was settled by Scots with fiddles in hand and is renowned for its ceilidh music performances, square dances and parties.

For a great introduction to local culture, visit the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre ; www. Half-hour tours which can be self-guided if you arrive when no guides are available include a fiddle lesson and a dance step or two. Rooms are large and comfortable and this place is only a minute drive from the causeway. Take any turn off Hwy 19 and see where it takes you.

In the Cape Mabou Highlands, an extensive network of hiking trails extends between Mabou and Inverness toward the coast west of Hwy Hikes ranging from 4km to 12km start from three different trailheads. Maps are also posted at the trailheads.

After the tour and a taste of the local beverage, enjoy free ceilidhs and stop for a meal or even for the night. The chalets are a better choice if you want brighter surroundings. Red Shoe Pub ; www. Check the website for performances. Inverness Row upon row of company housing betrays the history of coal mining in Inverness, the first town of any size on the coast.

Its history and people are captured evocatively by writer Alistair MacLeod. Beginning near the fishing harbor there are miles of sandy beach with comfortable water temperatures in late summer.

A boardwalk runs 1km along the beach. Inverness County Centre for the Arts ; www. The house is big and modern but the decoration is in keeping with Cape Breton heritage. Windows wrap around the dining area bringing in sea views and light. The drive is at its best along the northwestern shore and then down to Pleasant Bay.

Be sure to take advantage of the many pull-offs for scenic views and otherwise keep your eyes on this very circuitous road.

The Church of St Pierre dominates the town with its silver spire and colorful frescoes but the rest of this seaside town is modern and drab. Check out the rug displays at Les Trois Pignons and take notice of all those co-ops around town: the Credit Union, Co-op grocery store, Co-op Artisanale.

Stop here to gawk and snap a few pics of yourself with this quasi-macabre outdoor collection of life-sized, stuffed figures. Whale Cruises , ; www. Captain Cal is the most experienced and offers three-hour expeditions up to four times daily. It stands out from the other town motels because of its cleanliness and friendliness.

Views stretch from the sea to the mountain, wildflowers burst from every corner of the garden and you might even see a passing moose. Very full breakfasts are served in the panoramic dining area by energetic hosts. Four rooms furnished with antiques all have private bathrooms. It has a fresh, nautical ambience and some creative extras on the menu such as a maple vinaigrette for the salads. Cape Breton Highlands National Park One-third of the Cabot Trail runs through this extensive park of woodland, tundra, bog and startling sea views.

A one-day pass is good until noon the next day. Ask the staff for advice on hiking or camping. Wheelchair-accessible trails are indicated on the free park map available at either entrance.

Double the distances if you plan to return the same day. Note that two hikes north of the park opposite and Click here can also be overnight trips. Reviews of trails in and near the park are available at www. Most other trails are shorter and close to the road, many leading to ridge tops for impressive views of the coast.

The best of these is Skyline Trail, a 7km loop that puts you on the edge of a headland cliff right above the water. The trailhead is about 5.

Just south of Neils Harbour, on the eastern coast of the park, the Coastal Trail runs 11km round-trip and covers more gentle, lovely coastline. The riding is tough, there are no shoulders in many sections and you must be comfortable sharing the incredible scenery with RVs.

Alternatively you can mountain bike on four inland trails in the park. Only Branch Pond Lookoff Trail offers ocean views. Sea Spray Outdoor Adventures ; www.

It also offers help planning trips and leads organized cycling, kayaking and hiking tours. In the smaller campgrounds further from the park entrances, just pick a site and self-register. To camp at any of the three larger ones near the park entrances, register at the closest information center.

Wheelchair-accessible sites are available. When the main campground is full, an overflow area is opened. Corney Brook 20 sites , 10km further north, is a particularly stunning campground high over the ocean. MacIntosh Brook 10 sites is an open field 3km east of Pleasant Bay.

It has wheelchair-accessible sites. Big Intervale 10 sites is near a river 11km west of Cape North. Both have wheelchair-accessible sites.

These large campgrounds near the beach are popular with local families in midsummer. In truly inclement weather, tenters can take refuge in cooking shelters with woodstoves. Bring your own food. Pleasant Bay A perfect base for exploring the park, Pleasant Bay is a carved-out bit of civilization hemmed on all sides by wilderness. If you are in the area on Canada Day July 1 , try to be in the stands for the annual monks vs townspeople baseball game.

Make a stop at the Whale Interpretive Centre ; www. They leave from the adjacent wharf. Park entrance permits are for sale here, and internet access is available at the C P site downstairs.

Captain Mark promises not only guaranteed whales but also time to see seabirds and seals as well as Gampo Abbey. Tours leave from the wharf next to the Whale Interpretive Center.

There are great views along the way and perfect spots to camp when you arrive at the abandoned fishing community. This is not a Parks Canada trail, so it can be rough underfoot.

The office for Cabot Trail Whale Watching is here. The more stylish rooms in the inn are worth the outlay. He does trips at am, pm and pm in July and August. Call for spring and fall schedules. Reservations are accepted for multinight stays and for a beautifully built four-bunk cabin. There are hot showers, a cooking shelter, frequent whale sightings and the whole place is nearly bug-free.

The building was a general store for decades and is still full of strange flotsam and jetsam. Three units have kitchen facilities and there are views of Aspy Bay and mountains. Kayaks, canoes and bicycles are available free for guests. They frolic here all spring, summer, and into the fall. Carry a compass and refrain from exploring side paths; locals have gotten lost in this area.

Old logging saws, antlers, fishnets, bottles and other heritage paraphernalia make the ambience, while thick sliced homemade bread and fresh local homemade ingredients make up wonderful seafood dishes and light lunches.

Be prepared for high winds. Ingonish At the eastern entrance to the national park are Ingonish and Ingonish Beach, small towns lost in the background of motels and cottages. This is a long-standing popular destination, but there are few real attractions other than the Highlands Links golf course , ; www. There are several hiking trails and an information center nearby in the national park Click here.

Ingonish Beach is a long, wide strip of sand tucked in a bay surrounded by green hills. The owner works at the park and is a mine of info about hiking and activities. Keltic Lodge , ; www.

You must have a valid entry permit Click here to the national park, as the lodge, the golf course and the hiking trail are all within park boundaries. These are real gritty, working-people towns and, even though there is some nice architecture and colorful homes, this road feels distinctly off-the-beaten tourist track. The artists are easy to find, just keep an eye out for the signs along the main road.

Make sure you have change for the pay showers. Rainbow paintings grace the walls and Joan cooks up a million dollar breakfast in the morning. Meals breakfast and dinner are served on the screened-in porch. See medical and electrical devices, telegraphs, telephones, kites and seaplanes and then learn about how they all work.

The rooms in the inn are full of character, have bay views and are decorated with subtle prints and lots of flair. Modern self-contained cottages are set in the woods and are great for families. Lynwood Inn ; www. Another refreshing aspect to this place is its chic, modern design. All rooms and suites have private entrance and kitchenette, and fabulous breakfasts are brought to your room or to the sunny patio. Meals come with just about everything and, although not spectacularly prepared, could fuel you for days.

The parish hall is just opposite the VIC right in the middle of town. By appointment, elders will show the use of traditional games and craftspeople can demonstrate beading and basket weaving. Between Wagmatcook and the next town of Whycocomagh is the new, bed Bear by the Lake Hostel ; www. Call in advance to make sure someone will be home when you show up. Arguably the regions best pit stop, the deli serves gourmet sandwiches, soups and salads.

Grab a bag lunch or snacks for the road. Most places to stay are along Queen St about 2km west of the ferry terminal. Rooms have shared bathrooms. Most rooms have private bathrooms. Owners Cyril and Loretta are phenomenally know- ledgeable about their natural surroundings and will proudly teach you about everything from beekeeping to medicinal plants.

Open Cafe. For information about the Marine Atlantic ferry ; www. There are several nice places to stay if you want to use this as a base to explore Louisbourg. The more expensive rooms have en suite bathrooms and kitchenette facilities. Shared bathrooms get awfully busy when this place is full. The rooms are extra comfortable. All of the meat served is oven-roasted, not processed. Entertainment A lot of touring bands make the trek to Sydney.

Fiddlers and other traditional musicians from the west coast of the island also perform here or at the Savoy in Glace Bay right.

Air Canada Jazz , ; www. Air Saint-Pierre , ; www. The Acadian Lines bus depot is at 99 Terminal Dr. There are also a number of shuttle services to Halifax. The highlight of this museum is the adventure under the seafloor to visit closed-down mines with a retired miner as a guide. The town itself has plenty of soul, with its working fishing docks, old-timers and a friendly vibe.

Bring your camera to capture the views back toward the fortress at the national historic site. Built to protect French interests in the region, it was also a base for cod fishing and an administrative capital.

Louisbourg was worked on continually from to about as saltwater in the mortar led to corrosion. The British took it in a day siege in , exploiting intelligence from British soldiers who had been prisoners in the fortress.

It would change hands twice more. Since its founding in , the Sydney steel mill has produced some , tons of toxic sludge, the by-product of burning dirty coal to produce coke for use in the steel plant. The hectare coke-oven site is now a field of rubble contaminated to depths of 25m. The immense scale and extreme toxicity of the site have thwarted several clean-up attempts. Once solidified, the area will be covered in plastic, then soil and eventually grass.

Workers in period dress take on the lives of typical fort inhabitants. Free guided tours around the site are offered throughout the day. Travelers with mobility problems can ask for a pass to drive their car up to the site; there are ramps available to access most buildings. Though the scale of the reconstruction is massive, three-quarters of Louisbourg is still in ruins. The 2. Three restaurants serve food typical of the time.

Cranberry Cove Inn , ; www. Each room is unique and several have Jacuzzis and fireplaces. The views over the bay here are lovely and the service charming. Other shellfish platters as well as burgers and chicken are available. The largest town on the islands, Arichat, is one of the oldest communities in Nova Scotia and was a booming seaport in the s.

Le Noir Forge Museum ; Lower St; admission free; 10am-5pm Jun-Sep has blacksmith demonstrations in a restored stone blacksmith shop on the waterfront. The menu features burger platters at lunch and pastas and fresh seafood for dinner.

Running from Cape Canso at the extreme eastern tip of the mainland to the outskirts of Dartmouth, the Eastern Shore has no large towns and the main road is almost as convoluted as the rugged shoreline it follows. If you want to experience wilderness and are willing to hike or kayak, this is your heaven.

From the picnic area on the highway below the campground, a footbridge leads to a small island. Desbarres Manor ; www.

Check the website for schedules. Long dependent on the fishery, Canso has been decimated by outward emigration and unemployment since the northern cod stocks collapsed around The cape surrounding the village has some very off-the-beaten-track opportunities for hiking, kayaking, bird-watching and surfing. In the British built a small fort to offset the French who had their headquarters in Louisbourg.

The outpost was extremely vulnerable to military attacks and was totally destroyed in The boat to Grassy Island departs from the center upon demand, weather permitting. Chapel Gully Trail is a 10km boardwalk and hiking trail along an estuary and out to the coast. It begins near the lighthouse on the hill behind the hospital at the eastern end of Canso.

A large map is posted at the trailhead. Most people come for the Stan Rogers Folk Festival www. Accommodations are pretty much impossible to get unless you reserve a year ahead.

Locals set up campsites for the festival; check the website for details and try to get a site away from the festival site if sleep is a priority. The owners will help you organize your preferred activity. There are 25 buildings to visit in this living museum that effectively helps its visitors step back in time. Rooms in the house are shared while the loft style chalet has its own bathroom. On one side is a long, very fine, sandy beach fronting a protected bay.

Some 17km of hiking trails cut through the spruce and fir forests. The Headland Trail is the longest at 8km round-trip and follows the rugged coastline to scenic views at Taylor Head. The shorter Bob Bluff Trail is a 3km round-trip hike to a bluff with good views.

Pack the picnic cooler and plan on spending a full day hiking, lounging and if you can brave the cool water swimming here. The Acadians had been forced to abandon all their livestock and it appears that Boston merchant ship owner Thomas Hancock helped himself to their horses then put them to pasture on Sable Island to keep it low profile.

The horses that survived became wild. Today the island works as a research center; scientists come every year, mostly to study the birds, seals and horses. Since , natural gas fields run by Exxon have been working only 10km from the island but so far there has been little environmental conflict.

Highly recommended Coastal Adventures Sea Kayaking , www. The man of the house used to row 16km to get to his fishing grounds, leaving his wife and 13 daughters at home. Costumed local guides offer tea and hospitality. If you enjoy a creamy seafood chowder, the one here is to die for. Other specialties on offer include lobster, seafood and steaks. Wealthy American sportsmen and glamorous Hollywood starlets regularly journeyed north to fish its rivers and hunt in the vast forested interior.

Gradually New Brunswick slipped into relative obscurity; a terra incognita lying between Quebec and Nova Scotia. But the unspoiled wilderness is still there. So are gentle green valleys dotted with farms, colorful fishing villages along the coast, and a maritime culture melding the heritage of the early Acadian and British settlers with strong aboriginal traditions and those of recent immigrants.

The Trans-Canada Hwy cuts a roughly diagonal swath across the province from its northwest corner to the southeastern tip en route to Prince Edward Island. To see New Brunswick, you have to get off the highway and explore its small towns and villages, scenic river valleys, wilderness parks and coastal islands. New Brunswick offers outstanding opportunities for enjoying the great outdoors. Whale-watching around Passamaquoddy Bay and Grand Manan is so good it comes with a sighting guarantee.

Sea-kayak outfitters offer a rigorous day out on the waves. The inland lakes and rivers have unlimited opportunities for canoe-tripping. There are 64 covered bridges and 70 lighthouses in New Brunswick. Many places still bear their aboriginal names although the Aboriginal people who today number around 17, are now concentrated on small pockets of land.

Following in the wake of explorer Samuel de Champlain, French colonists arrived in the s. The Acadians, as they came to be known, farmed the area around the Bay of Fundy. In they were expelled by the English, many returning to settle along the Bay of Chaleur.

In the years following, the outbreak of the American Revolution brought an influx of British Loyalists from Boston and New York seeking refuge in the wilds of New Brunswick. These refugees settled the valleys of the St John and St Croix Rivers, established the city of Saint John and bolstered the garrison town at Fredericton. The majority of the population still has British roots. Irish ancestry is dominant in Saint John and Miramichi.

Through the s lumbering and shipbuilding boomed and by the start of the 20th century other industries, including fishing, had developed. That era of prosperity ended with the Great Depression.

Today, pulp and paper, oil refining and potato farming are the major industries. The church parking lots are generally full on a Sunday morning, but so are the pubs on a Friday night, and there is some overlap in clientele. Country and gospel music are popular in these parts, but every sizable town has a small alternative music and arts scene and a few young people walking around with pink hair and black clothes.

You will rarely have a problem being understood in English or French. There are four distinct seasons. Summers are generally mild with occasional hot days. The Fundy shore is prone to fog, particularly in the spring and early summer.

The primary tourist season lasts from late June to early September. Many tourist facilities beaches, organized tours and some accommodations in resort areas shut down for the remainder of the year. Kouchibouguac National Park encompasses a serene land and seascape of tidal marshes and estuaries, sand dunes, beaches and forest.

Fundy National Park is a big chunk of rugged coastline on the Bay of Fundy. There are 12 provincial parks scattered throughout the province. There are also several designated historical sites including colonial forts and homes of prominent people.

The Fundy Coast is a major bird migration corridor, with great viewing in spring, summer and fall. Other creatures of interest include black bear, moose and deer, which inhabit rural and wilderness areas, whales in the Bay of Fundy, and Atlantic salmon in the Miramichi River.

For concert listings and events, pick up the free [here] tabloid in Fredericton, Saint John and Moncton. Follow the Old River Road through Gagetown to the port city of Saint John, stopping at a few pottery studios along the way. The next morning, head west along the Fundy coast to catch the ferry to Grand Manan Island. Take your pick of whale-watching tours, hiking, cycling or relaxing on the verandah with a book. Stop for a dip in the ocean at Parlee Beach near Shediac, then head north toward Bouctouche.

Get a taster of Acadian culture at Le Pays de la Sagouine, then round out the experience with a visit to the modern village of Caraquet and a time trip to the early 19th century at Village Historique Acadien. Alternatively, head up to the Miramichi for a few days of salmon fishing and tubing on the famed river. Outdoor Adventures Start with a couple of days camping by the ocean, kayaking along the dunes and exploring the cycling and hiking trails at Kouchibouguac National Park.

Take a sea-kayaking expedition in Passamaquoddy Bay, then spend a week canoe-tripping through the Chiputneticook Lakes.

These are open from mid-May to mid-October only. WestJet also flies into Saint John from Toronto three times a week. Click here for airline contact details. The three-hour crossing can save a lot of driving. From Saint John between late June and early September, departure times are 9am and pm daily with an additional am crossing on Tuesday and Thursday.

From Digby, departure times are 1pm and pm with an additional 5am sailing on Tuesday and Thursday. During the rest of the year, ferries run once or twice daily in both directions. Even with a reservation, arrive an hour before departure. Walk-ons and cyclists should be OK any time. For Fundy Isles ferries, see the section dedicated to the islands Click here. BUS Acadian Lines ; www.

For information on the daily bus service between Bangor and Calais, Click here. Traffic is generally light, although crossing the Maine border usually means a delay at customs.

These accidents are almost always fatal for the animal and about five people a year die this way. Eighty-five percent of moose-vehicle collisions happen between May and October and most occur at night. Slow down when driving after dusk and scan the verges for animals, using your high beams when there is no oncoming traffic. High-risk zones are posted. Its grassy banks are mowed and dotted with fountains, walking paths, playing fields, tall elms and willows.

The small downtown commercial district is a neat grid of redbrick storefronts. Surrounding it are quiet residential streets lined with tall, graceful elms shading beautifully maintained Georgian and Victorian houses and abundant flowerbeds.

A canopy of trees spreads over the downtown, pierced here and there by church spires. The French followed in but were eventually burned out by the British, who brought in Loyalists fleeing the United States after the American Revolution.

Fredericton really came into its own the next year when the British government decided to form a new province by splitting New Brunswick away from Nova Scotia. The Westmorland St Bridge connects the downtown area with the north shore residential areas. Further east, Hwy 8 crosses the river on the Princess Margaret Bridge. Visitors Centre , ; www. Westminster Books ; King St Stocks regional authors.

Also in summer the Calithumpians Outdoor Summer Theatre performs daily at pm weekdays and 2pm weekends. The free historical skits are laced with humor. Threaten your kids! The lower section of the barracks is now used as artisan studios.

Beaverbrook Art Gallery This relatively small but excellent gallery ; www. The exceptional collection includes works by international heavyweights and is well worth an hour or so. When the Legislative Assembly is not in session, guides can show you around.

When the assembly is in session, visitors are welcome to observe. The representative of the queen moved out in after the province refused to continue paying his expenses, and during most of the 20th century the complex was a Royal Canadian Mounted Police RCMP headquarters. It now evocatively captures a moment in time with tours led by staff in period costume. Oh what the hell, you know you always wanted a mullet! Old Burial Ground The Loyalist cemetery Brunswick St, at Carleton St; 8am-9pm , dating back to , is an atmospheric, thought-provoking history lesson of its own, revealing large families and kids dying tragically young.

The Loyalists arrived from the 13 colonies after the American Revolution of On offer are weekly passes, guided canoe and kayak tours, one-hour to three-day river ecology trips, and instruction in either canoeing or kayaking. They range from m to Pick up a map at City Hall. For bike rentals, Click here. Tours depart from City Hall at 10am, pm and 5pm daily. Silver Wave Film Festival ; www. Often travelers luxuriate in their own room.

Wind down on the front porch swing. Carriage House Inn , ; www. The grand common room is furnished with polished hardwood floors, antiques, comfy sofas, fireplaces and grand piano.

The 10 high-ceilinged guest rooms upstairs feature four-poster beds, period wallpapers and original artwork. There is a deep verandah for lounging. Delta Fredericton , ; www. All the amenities of the upscale hotel chain plus a secluded patio bar with a fabulous view of the river and nearby islands. Return to beginning of chapter EATING For a small city, Fredericton offers a wide, cosmopolitan cross-section of restaurants and most are in the walkable core.

Mixed in among the or so stands are some selling handicrafts, homemade desserts and flowers. There is also a restaurant where Frederictonians queue to catch up and people-watch.

Enjoy your meal on the rooftop patio. Daily lunch specials include Jambalaya with cornbread, quiche and salad and a range of wholesome, hefty sandwiches. The largely authentic, south-of-the-border food, including tamales and enormous burritos, is savory, plentiful and never greasy. The Mexican drinks go down well with the Latin music, too. Great for a casual, flavorful meal. No alcohol. Have a freshly-made pastry and iced coffee under the trees or a hearty German meal in the homey schnitzel parlor.

Open for dinner by reservation only. Dishes range from coconut curry with mussels and maple baked salmon to pasta incorporating local sausage and mushrooms. The Atlantic salmon is superb. Among other things, he gave it an art gallery in It includes an impressive collection of European masters. They thought the time had come for them to be sent across the pond. The art gallery board said to forget it. Then things got ugly and litigious.

In , an independent arbitrator ruled that of the artworks in dispute, 85 were gifts from Lord Beaverbrook to the gallery. Forty-eight other mainly minor works had to go back. The current Lord Beaverbrook has appealed the decision. Pub meals are served daily, too. Lunar Rogue Pub ; King St; am Lunar Rogue has a good beer selection and a fine assortment of single malts. Try Picaroons, the local microbrew and enjoy summer on the patio.

For the scoop on concerts, art gallery openings and other happenings around town, pick up a copy of [here] www. They were covered to protect their load-bearing timbers from rot and to keep the snow off and are generally high and wide because cartloads of hay pulled by horses had to pass over them. As recently as , there were bridges in New Brunswick.

Today, 64 bridges remain, more than anywhere else in Canada. Though age, fire and flooding have taken their toll, most of the bridges are still part of the secondary road network, not idle relics. Click here for flight details. In-province visitors can get a one-day pass. Avis, Budget, Hertz and National car rental agencies Click here all have desks at the airport and downtown. Service is halved on weekends. Two automobile routes carve through the valley: the quicker Trans-Canada Hwy Hwy 2 , mostly on the west side of the river, and the more scenic old Hwy on the east side, which meanders through many villages.

A community of costumed staff create a living museum by role-playing in 11 houses, a school, church, store and sawmill typical of those used a century ago, providing a glimpse and taste of pioneer life in the Maritimes. Demonstrations and events are staged throughout the day and horse-drawn carts shunt visitors around. The prosperous Loyalist life reflected here can be tellingly compared to that at the Acadian Historic Village in Caraquet. Situated where the Meduxnekeag River flows into the St John River, it has a historical core of lovingly preserved Victorian homes and public buildings.

It serves colorful, healthful fare like quiche, soups, salads, sandwiches, luscious desserts, coffee, a local microbrew and martinis to world beat music. Acadian Lines bus stops at the Irving convenience store ; Connell St. The photogenic m-long Hartland covered bridge over the St John River was erected in and is a national historic site.

The picnic tables overlooking the river and the bridge at the tourist information center are five-star lunch spots fixings at the grocery store across the road. Otherwise, the village has a rather forlorn atmosphere. Check-in is after 5pm. A far more scenic route albeit about twice as long follows the gentle, meandering St John River through rolling farmland and a couple of historic villages down to the Fundy coast.

Start on the north side of the river in Fredericton, and follow Rte south through Maugerville to Jemseg. At Exit , pick up Rte South which will take you to the Gagetown ferry landing admission free; 24hr, year-round. This is the first of a system of eight free cable ferries that crisscross the majestic St John River en route to the city of Saint John.

You will never have to wait more that a few minutes for the crossing, which generally takes five to 10 minutes. The top-notch staff will show you through the exhibits spanning pre-colonial aboriginal history in the area, 18th-century settler life, and up to WWII. Gagetown Cider Company ; Fox Rd; pm offers tours by appointment. Explore scenic Gagetown Creek by boat.

Gagetown Camping ; www. The grand old farmhouses and weathered hay barns dotted at hundred acre intervals along the valley belong to that earlier age. The hilly 42km piece of road between Gagetown and the ferry landing at Evandale admission free; 24hr, year-round is especially picturesque, with glorious panoramic views of fields full of wildflowers, white farm houses and clots of green and gold islands set in the intensely blue water of the river.

A hundred years ago, Evandale was a bustling little place, where a dance band would entertain riverboat passengers stopping off for the night at the now abandoned Everleigh Hotel the big Victorian mansion up from the ferry landing. On the other side of the water, Rte takes you the short distance to the Belleisle ferry admission free; 24hr, year-round. The ferry deposits you on the rural Kingston Peninsula, where you can cross the peninsula to catch the Gondola Point Ferry admission free; 24hr, year-round and head directly into Saint John.

In this area, school kids are still given two weeks off in the autumn to help bring in the harvest. Especially engaging are the archival photographs and recorded oral histories of local elders recounting a hardscrabble life growing up in the New Brunswick potato belt. The museum is 2km off Hwy 2 at Exit toward Centreville on Rte If you are cycling up the valley on the Trans Canada Trail Click here or looking for a bed for the night, there are two appealing options in the area.

Besides the Harvest Cafe see opposite , Florenceville has a half-dozen middle-of-the-road restaurants serving three meals a day. Mt Carleton is little known and relatively unvisited, even in midsummer. Hunting and logging are prohibited in the park, and all roads are gravel-surfaced.

The nearest town is Riley Brook, 30km away, so bring all food and a full tank of gas. At the entrance to the park is a visitors centre ; www. There is also another office ; dnr. In the park itself, the Nictau and Nipisiguit chains of lakes offer easy day-tripping through a landscape of tree-clad mountains.

For experienced canoeists, the shallow and swift Little Tobique River rises at Big Nictau Lake, winding in tight curls through dense woods until it joins the Tobique itself at Nictau.

The more remote Nepisiguit River flows out of the Nepisiguit Lakes through the wilderness until it empties into the Bay of Chaleur at Bathurst, over kilometers away. The lower reaches of the Tobique, from Nictau, through minute Riley Brook and down to Plaster Rock is a straight, easy paddle through forest and meadow that gives way to farmland as the valley broadens, with a couple of waterfront campgrounds along the way. Fiddles on the Tobique ; late Jun is a weekend festival held annually in Nictau and Riley Brook.

It is a magical idea: a round of community hall suppers, jam sessions and concerts culminating in a Sunday afternoon floating concert down the Tobique River from Nictau to Riley Brook. By some accounts, the event has been damaged by its own popularity, devolving into a boisterous booze cruise.

Others call it a grand party and good fun. On land, Bill Miller ; www. Also worth a stop is the Tobique Salmon Barrier admission free; 9am-5pm , signposted from the road at Nictau, located at the confluence of the Little Tobique and Campbell Rivers. There is a spectacular view from the Department of Fisheries office situated on a bluff overlooking the water.

From here, officers keep a hour watch on the Atlantic salmon, which are trucked up by road from below the Mactaquac Dam at Fredericton and held here until spawning time, in order to protect their dwindling numbers from poachers. The knowledgeable staff oversee demonstration projects devoted to organic agriculture, wind and solar power, biodiesel production and straw-bale construction.

You can tour the site, hike 10km of forest trails and enjoy the view atop Skedaddle Ridge named for the American Civil War draft-dodgers who settled here , or sign up for a weekend workshop a calendar of events is on the website. The center is a half-hour drive from Hartland. Call or check the website for directions, pack a picnic and enjoy the scenery along the way. The park has a 62km network of trails, most of them are loops winding to the handful of rocky knobs that are the peaks.

The easiest peak to climb is Mt Bailey; a 7. Most hikers can walk this route in three hours. Plan on three to four hours for the trek and pack your parka; the wind above the tree line can be brutal. The most scenic hike is the Sagamook Trail, a 6km loop to a m peak with superlative vistas of Nictau Lake and the highlands area to the north of it; allow three hours for this trek.

All hikers intending to follow any long trails must register at the visitors center or park headquarters before hitting the trail. Outside the camping season mid-May to mid-September , you should call ahead to make sure the main gate will be open, as the Mt Carleton trailhead is With so few sites available, the park campground can occasionally fill up. Reservations are suggested, by sending an email to the park office Click here in St Quentin.

Williams Brook and Franquelin Campgrounds and the backcountry Headwaters campsite in the park were all closed at the time of research due to government budget cuts. It has toilets, showers and a kitchen shelter, but no sites with hookups. RV drivers often have their noisy generators running, so tenters should check out the eight tent-only sites along Armstrong Brook on the north side of the campground.

A grand log hunting lodge set on the banks on the Tobique River, it is busiest during fall hunting season, but is also a supremely relaxing base for hikers, canoeists and wildlife enthusiasts.

There is also a pool table, big screen TV, floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace, a few dining tables and huge picture windows framing a serene view of the river slipping by just a few meters away.

The cozy log-walled guest rooms are spick and span and nicely accented with plaid fabrics. A long, deep verandah invites lounging after dinner. The town of Plaster Rock, situated 54km downriver toward the Trans-Canada Hwy Rye , also has several serviceable motels and a couple of casual restaurants.

The Grand Falls are best in spring or after heavy rain. In summer, much of the water is diverted for generating hydroelectricity, yet the gorge appeals any time.

Among the displays is a scale model of the gorge showing its extensive trail system. Buy the boat ticket at La Rochelle first, as it includes the stairway to the base of the gorge. Maple Tourist Home , ; www. The Acadian Lines bus stops at the Irving gas station ; Broadway , right in the center of town.

Hwy known locally as the Renous Hwy cuts across the province through Plaster Rock to the east coast, slicing through forest for nearly its entirety. It is most tedious, but fast. Watch out for deer and moose. For many, this affection obsession? Twenty rinks are plowed on Roulston Lake, which is ringed by tall evergreens, hot chocolate stands and straw-bale seating for the odd spectators drawn to the four-day event.

The tournament is wildly popular, with amateur four-person teams traveling in from all 13 Canadian provinces and territories, 35 American states to date, and 15 countries as far flung as England, Egypt and the Cayman Islands. Anyone can register to play, but they will have to defeat the Boston Danglers, who scrambled over squads like the Skateful Dead, the Raggedy Ass River Boys and the Boiled Owls to put a lock on the championship trophy several years running.

If you want to play, register early. If you want to watch, pack your long johns and a toque wool hat and book your accommodation asap. If the motels are full, the organizers keep a list of local folks willing to billet out-of-towners in their homes for the weekend. Nevertheless, it makes a convenient stopover for those traveling east from Quebec. Here there are 80, plants to brighten your day, all accompanied by classical music!

Kids might prefer the insectarium. In summer, simple institutional rooms are available at University of Moncton ; www. Several motels line the Hwy and old Hwy 2 Boul Acadie. A city landmark since the s, this is a total classic right down to the seasoned, uniformed waitresses.

The you-name-it menu includes more-than- acceptable Italian, Chinese, seafood and basic Canadian fare. The bus terminal ; Victoria is across the street from the Bel Air restaurant. The resort town of St Andrews, the serene Fundy Isles, fine seaside scenery and rich history make this easily one of the most appealing regions of the province.

Whale-watching is a thrilling area activity. Most commonly seen are the fin, humpback and minke, and less so, the increasingly rare right whale. Porpoises and dolphins are plentiful. It is home to Ganong, a family-run chocolate business operating since , whose products are known around eastern Canada.

Once a year, during Chocolate Fest ; www. You can walk the main street easily from here. There are also a few run-down motels on the outskirts of town if you are desperate. In Bangor, immediate connections are available to Boston and New York. They leave from the Angelhom restaurant, but call to confirm the location as this changes. In Bangor, buses use the Greyhound terminal and connect to Bangor airport.

Greyhound passes cannot be used from Calais. Blessed with a fine climate and picturesque beauty, it also has a colorful history. Busy with holidaymakers and summer residents in July and August, the rest of the year there are more seagulls than people. King St is its main cross street.

The main tourist office ; www. Sights Huntsman Aquarium Museum ; www. The aquarium features most specimens found in local waters, including seals feedings at 11am and 4pm and sharks. Kids love the touch pool. The research center also offers week-long summer field courses for amateur enthusiasts both students and adults. His former cottage of 50 rooms and the unusual bathhouse with its tidal swimming pool can be visited at low tide when you can drive on the hard-packed sea floor.

Be careful! Two-hour visits, by tour only, run once or twice a day, depending on the tides. You must use your own vehicle. Various changing exhibits run through summer. Stretching for km along the international border, the forest-ringed Chiputneticook Lakes offer canoeing enthusiasts the chance to slip away into the wild for a few weeks. It includes the St Croix River, a popular three- to four-day paddling route beginning south of the lakes. There are a couple of fishing lodges on Palfrey Lake accessible via Rte Day-trippers can use the scenic lake-shore campsites at Spednik Lake Provincial Park free; maintained by volunteers where there is a hiking trail through the woods, primitive toilets and fire rings.

Bring your own water. Take Rte 3 north from St Stephen then bear left on Rte to reach the park gate. Canoe rentals are available in Saint John and Fredericton. Note: the lakes are not patrolled by the park service, and paddlers should be experienced and well-equipped. The park is at the northwest end of Water St. Centennial Park, opposite the blockhouse, has a picnic pavilion.

Atlantic Salmon Interpretive Centre ; www. Activities Eastern Outdoors ; www. Tours Several companies offering boat trips and whale-watching cruises have offices at the Adventure Destinations complex by the wharf at the foot of King St. Sleeping Kiwanis Oceanfront Camping ; www. Picket Fence Motel ; www. There are ocean views from the garden. No tax, check or cash only.

Treadwell Inn , ; www. Fairmont Algonquin Hotel , ; www. Note the doormen dressed in kilts. There are a couple of places for a drink, be it high tea or gin. Sadly, these days, there is nowhere in town to hear live music. Cocktails are available at the Fairmont Algonquin Hotel. Food-wise, there are several nice choices. Pesto pizza, smoked meat sandwiches and crepes for lunch; crab cakes, salmon and steak for dinner. With grand scenery, colorful fishing wharves tucked into coves, supreme whale-watching, uncluttered walking trails and steaming dishes of seafood, everyday stresses fade away and blood pressure eases.

The three main islands each have a distinct personality. They offer a memorable, gradually absorbed peace. Carrying 22 million passengers a year, the BC Ferries system has a few unusual stories to tell.

There have been 21 on-board births, several weddings and a missing dog that disappeared from a boat in , only to arrive bedraggled on Bowen Island two days later, following an exhausting doggy paddle. Pub grub is the main focus here and the fish and chips are recommended.

BC Ferries , ; www. In addition, a handful of attractions aim to keep you away from the shops. For information, contact Tourism Burnaby ; www. Offering a peaceful environment minus the hectic energy of downtown, the pathways of Deer Lake Park Map crisscross the meadows and woodlands, circling the lake where fowl and other wildlife hang out. The adjoining Burnaby Village Museum Map; ; www. To get there, take the Sperling Ave exit off Hwy 1 and follow the museum signs. An ever-expanding homage to materialism, Metropolis at Metrotown Map; ; www.

The mall is a minute SkyTrain ride from downtown Vancouver. For information, drop into the Visitor Centre Map; , ; www. At the time of writing, the market was considering a new location: check its website for location updates before you set off.

Kuan Yin Temple Map; ; www. Rooms are tastefully lined with reproduction antiques and landscape paintings. The best feature is the chintzy guest lounge, which opens directly onto a large, secluded swimming pool. Fairmont Vancouver Airport Map; , ; www. A great option for boarding your long-haul flight in trance-like state of calm.

The rooms are elegantly furnished with high-end flourishes including remote-controlled drapes and marble-lined bathrooms. The giant, naturally occurring Buntzen Lake off Map; reservoir is surrounded on three sides by steep, tree-covered mountains and on its fourth side by a gently curving beach, complete with picnic tables, old-growth trees and those ambling, ever-present Canada geese.

Take the Ioco exit and follow Ioco Rd to the left. Turn right on First Ave and continue to Sunnyside Rd. Turn right again and continue to the Buntzen Lake entrance. The journey should take around an hour. It can get crowded here in summer, so arrive early if you want your pick of the picnic tables. Vegetarians are also well served on a menu that stretches to almost 50 dishes. Drive here from Vancouver via the Steveston Hwy exit off Hwy 99 for an early-evening stroll along the boardwalk.

Most of the machinery is still in place and you can learn all about what a horrible job it was working the production line here. Fort Langley is 45 minutes southeast of Vancouver via Hwy 1. Head to the slick new visitor center, named the Squamish Adventure Centre , ; www.

The underground train tour May to October only into the mines is a highlight, especially for kids who like a fright.

West Coast Railway Heritage Park ; www. This volunteer-driven outdoor museum has around 90 railcars, including 10 working engines. A few minutes past Squamish, riverside Brackendale village is a fancy-free spot with a major claim to fame. The winter feeding ground for thousands of salmon-scoffing bald eagles, it draws legions of binocular-clad visitors, who flock around Thor Froslev, the eccentric owner of Brackendale Art Gallery ; www.

Activities Home of a sheer, m granite rock face that attracts climbers from across the region, Stawamus Chief Provincial Park www. Call Squamish Rock Guides ; www. Known for its high wind quotient, Squamish Spit is a popular kiteboarding and windsurfing destination. There are two shower buildings with flush toilets, and campers often indulge in activities like swimming, hiking and biking rentals available.

Consider an interpretive ranger tour through the woods July and August only to find out a little more about the region. Squamish Inn on the Water , ; www. These are among the best producers and their recommended beers : Dead Frog Brewery www.

Granville Island Brewing www. Phillips Brewing www. Russell Brewing www. Storm Brewing www. Vancouver Island Brewery www. The slightly more salubrious Perimeter Squamish Shuttle , ; www.

Summer hikers seem magnetic- ally drawn here but the trails also double as cross-country ski routes in winter. The trailhead is 8. The Elfin Lakes trail 11km is a lovely and relatively easy day trek. For overnighters, the trail continues on to the extinct volcano of Opal Cone. The trailhead parking lot is 16km east of Hwy The bright aqua hue of the undisturbed lake contrasts with the dark, jagged peak of Black Tusk rising behind it.

A short stroll through the forest leads to a leg-jellying platform overlooking the top of the falls, where water drops suddenly out of the trees like a giant faucet. A 7km looped trail leads further through the dense forest and ancient lava beds to Cal-Cheak Suspension Bridge. If you fancy staying, there are 15 drive-in campsites ; www. Co-hosting the Winter Olympics www. Once little more than an off-season afterthought, the area has seen summer visitor numbers leaping in recent years, with many people dropping by to try mountain biking, alpine hiking and a full roster of adventurous outdoor activities.

Luckily, there are plenty of street signs and lots of people around to snag directions from. Pick up The Pique or Whistler Question newspapers for further local insights. Armchair Books ; Village Sq; 9am-9pm Central bookstore with strong travel section.

Whistler Activity Centre , ; Whistler Way; 9am-5pm Recommendations and bookings for local activities. Whistler Visitor Centre , ; www. Whistler was originally called Alta Lake and Whistler Mountain was named London Mountain in the s by some evidently homesick British naval officers.

Whatever season you arrive, head to the visitor center or Whistler Activity Centre for tips and recommendations. There are dozens of lifts to transport skiers and snowboarders and a hotly anticipated 4. Snowshoers are also well served at Lost Lake: you can stomp off on your own on 10km of trails or rent equipment and guides. Outdoor Adventures Whistler ; www. Prices include equipment rentals and the company also offers a wide range of non-snowshoe tours and activities.

The cool, line course operated by Ziptrek Ecotours , ; www. Hiking With more than 40km of flower-and-forest alpine trails, most accessed via the Whistler Village Gondola, this region is ideal for those who like nature of the strollable variety. Favorite routes include the High Note Trail 8km , which traverses pristine meadows and has stunning views of the blue-green waters of Cheakumus Lake. Pick up a route map from the visitor center for other trails.

Whistler Alpine Guides Bureau ; www. Rafting Tumbling waterfalls, dense forest and a menagerie of local wildlife are some of the visuals you might catch as you lurch along the Elaho or Squamish rivers on an adrenalin-rushing half- or full-day rafting trip.

Whistler River Adventures , ; www. Kokanee Crankworx www. Cornucopia www. Whistler Film Festival www. The visitor center has a handy accommodation reservation service , ; www.

Budget HI-Whistler Hostel ; whistler hihostels. Dorms are predictably institutional, but private rooms are also available.

Book ahead year-round. The on-site restaurant serves great breakfasts have the salmon eggs Benedict. Fireside Lodge ; www. Midrange Blackcomb Lodge , ; www.

It offers lofts and studios with full kitchens, and a selection of cheaper but very comfortable standard rooms. Alpine Lodge ; www.

Crystal Lodge , ; www. Both share excellent proximity to village restaurants and are less than m from the main ski lift. Or you can just hop in the hot tub and dream about the large buffet breakfast coming your way in the morning. Edgewater Lodge , ; www. Pinnacle Hotel , ; www. Top end Adara Hotel , ; www. The front desk loans iPods. The region hits the international spotlight when it joins Vancouver to host the Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games in February and March Go to www.

Choose a room overlooking the slopes and you can watch from your balcony as the skiers slide home. Fairmont Chateau Whistler , ; www. The hallways, lobbies and rooms are adorned in rich hues and tastefully furnished with classic west coast elegance. Also recommended: Sundial Boutique Hotel , ; www. Suites have full kitchens, heated bathroom floors and rooftop hot-tub access. Legends , ; www. Fight your way to the counter and buy as many cookies and muffins as you can eat: smiling while stuffing your face has never been easier.

Try a glass of hot sake on a cold winter day. The loungey, sometimes raucous, bar will keep you occupied here until past midnight when you can stagger back to wherever your hotel might be.

Save room for dessert: the cheese menu is small but perfectly formed and the Okanagan apple cheesecake will have you licking the glaze off your plate. You can treat your hangover to a late breakfast the next day by coming in for a good-value fry-up. From its wrought-iron chandeliers to its stone hearth and giant picture windows, you can tell anyone who will listen here all about your daring escapades on the slopes.

They might even believe you. The food, including pasta, pizza and great fish and chips, is superior to standard bar fare. Thursday is the best night of the week, attracting locals with indie and funk tunes, but be prepared to line up for weekend entry when everyone within a 25km radius seems to be trying to get in. MY Place ; www. Motor coach services from Perimeter Tours , ; www.

Snowbus , ; www. Alternatively, you can grab a taxi from Resort Cabs ; www. Check the website of the Sunshine Coast Tourism Partnership www.

The Sunshine Coast Transit System ; www. Malaspina Coach Lines ; ; www. This service is also handy for traveling up and down the highway between the Sunshine Coast communities. West of town, Roberts Creek Provincial Park ; www. Exactly what a great hostel should be, Up the Creek Backpackers , ; www.

Its large upstairs suite, complete with kitchenette, is popular with families but the lovely Renaissance Room is perfect for some romantic canoodling. Return to beginning of chapter SECHELT pop A useful base for active travelers, with plenty of hiking, biking, kayaking and diving opportunities in the area, Sechelt is the second-largest town on the Sunshine Coast. For information, drop by the Visitor Centre , ; www.

About as far from camping as you can get, each luxurious canvas-walled cabin has a heated rock floor, Jacuzzi tub and a private deck overlooking the bay. Your first stop should be Pemberton Museum ; Prospect St; admission by donation; 10am-5pm Jun-Sep where you can wander around a village of rescued pioneer shacks and imagine the Gold Rush sweeping through. Next, don your Stetson and saddle up with Adventures on Horseback ; www. An even better way to see the area is from the air.

Head to the Pemberton Soaring Centre , ; www. Tell the pilot you like rollercoasters and see what happens next. Finally, roll back to your cozy bed at the Whistler-style Pemberton Valley Lodge , ; www. Hop aboard a steel-hulled water taxi operated by High Tide Tours ; www. West of downtown, Willingdon Beach City Park is an ideal spot for a waterfront picnic. Or you can hit the water with a kayak from Powell River Sea Kayak , ; www. For a quirky sleepover, the Old Courthouse Inn , ; www.

In keeping with the historic theme, the rooms are nicely decorated with antique furnishings. Nearby, the old Rodmay Heritage Hotel ; www. For an introduction to the island, contact Tourism Vancouver Island , ; www.

This was a surprise to anyone who actually came from Britain, since Victoria promulgated a dreamy version of England that never really was: every garden complete with the occasional palm tree was immaculate; every flag pole was adorned with a Union Jack; and every afternoon was spent quaffing tea from bone-china cups.

Thankfully this tired theme-park version of Ye Olde England has been gradually superseded in recent years. Fuelled by an increasingly younger demographic, a quiet revolution has seen lame tourist pubs, eateries and stores transformed into the kind of bright-painted bohemian shops, wood-floored coffee bars and surprisingly innovative restaurants that would make any city proud.

Visitor Centre Map; ; www. Parliament Buildings Map; ; www. The BC legislature welcomes history-hugging visitors. Consider stopping for lunch Click here.

This tiny strip of businesses is fronted by an incongruously large Chinatown gate. Consider a guided tour to learn all about days of opium dens and anti-Chinese sentiment. Check the online calendar of events if you want to rub shoulders with the locals at lectures, presentations and even singles nights aimed at lonely arts fans. The multiturreted Craigdarroch Castle Map; ; www.

The elegant, wood-lined stone mansion is dripping with period architecture and antique-packed rooms. Enter the park via Douglas St. Emily Carr House Map; ; www. When you get to Victoria Bug Zoo Map; ; www. This clutch of scrubbed colonial strongholds is now home to the Maritime Museum of British Columbia Map; ; www. Some operators: Orca Spirit Adventures Map; , ; www. Some operators: Ocean River Sports Map; , ; www. Sports Rent Map; ; www. Cycle Treks Map; , ; www.

Gray Line West Map; , ; www. Hidden Dragon Tours Map; , ; www. Victoria SkaFest www. Victoria Jazzfest International www. Moss Street Paint-In In mid-July artists demonstrate their skills at this popular one-day community event.

Symphony Splash www. Victoria Fringe Theatre Festival www. Victoria Cycling Festival www. A great place to meet fellow travelers. Daily guided excursions and tours include city, bike and history treks.

HI Victoria Hostel Map; , ; victoria hihostels. Free weekly city tours are offered. Geometric bedspreads and pastel paintwork color most interiors but the courtyard suites are much larger and suitable for small groups. Ocean Island Suites Map; , ; www. James Bay Inn Map; , ; www.

There are some kitchenettes but the downstairs neighborhood bar also serves good pub grub. Add extra time for the painfully slow elevator to arrive. Queen Victoria Map; , ; www.

The rooms here have abandoned the floral bedspreads in favor of a smart business hotel feel. All have new bathrooms and fridges, some have kitchenettes and many overlook Beacon Hill Park from their little balconies.

Shamrock Suites Map; , ; www. Call ahead for year-round room discounts. Rosewood Victoria Inn Map; , ; www. Bring your laptop to the library-like lounge for wireless access or hit the selection of board games. The Heritage House is a restored family home with antiques, fireplaces and private patios. The larger Garden Suites have a contemporary feel and a smattering of Asian design flourishes. Gourmet continental breakfast is included. Swans Suite Hotel Map; , ; www. Most of the rooms are spacious loft suites where you climb upstairs to bed in a gabled nook, and each is decorated with a comfy combination of wood beams, rustic chic furniture and deep leather sofas.

Oswego Hotel Map; , ; www. Cleverly, the smaller studio rooms have space-saving high-end Murphy beds. Fairmont Empress Hotel Map; , ; www. Check out the handmade candies on display near the entrance and pick up some marzipan teeth for the road. Hulking sandwiches of the melt-in-your-mouth pulled pork variety beef brisket and smoked chicken variations are also offered dominate the simple menu and you can wash that down with a pail of homemade ice tea.

Expect lunchtime queues better to arrive early or late and consider perking up your order with a side of succulent cornbread or a fried-banana-and-peanut-butter sandwich dessert. Signature sarnies feature roast beef or pastrami but the bulging vegetarian sandwich is also popular. Soups, wraps and sandwiches dominate the menu and there are plenty of vegetarian-friendly options. Heaping Belgian waffles are served with homemade cream cheese, and those who come for dinner can choose from a medley of international comfort foods, from calamari to pierogies.

Even meat-eaters have been known to swoon here, as they tuck into surprisingly tasty spring rolls, dim sum and potstickers. Combo meals are the best option, since they offer an array of different flavors. Carnivores will be just as happy here, though, with hearty savory dishes like shitake-tofu potstickers and an array of dense fruit smoothies. Weekend brunch is popular and heavily patronized by hung-over students moaning quietly from the corners.

The excellent beer selection includes Phillips and Lighthouse craft brews. Try the salmon-and-cream-cheese bagel melt at ReBar above. Save room for dessert: a frightening array of giant cheesecakes.

With a great wine menu, this spot invites adventurous foodies. Locally sourced produce is de rigueur, so the menu constantly changes to reflect seasonal highlights like figs, salmonberries and heirloom tomatoes. We recommend the lamb shank, served with mustard-creamed root vegetables and braised chard.

Unassuming from the outside, the ever-changing dishes might range from a hearty squash soup with butter-fried sage to a mouth-melting sablefish, served with rapini and poached eggs. Savvy diners drop by on Saturdays, when a creative five-course tasting menu hits the blackboard.

Extensive first-hand research was undertaken for these reviews. Summer drinkers often enjoy the lighter Honey Blonde Ale, while those with darker palates should make for the Nut Brown. Save room for dinner: the menu of seasonal, locally-sourced dishes is superior to most pubs and includes some excellent seafood. Irish Times Map; ; Government St; 11am-1am Colonizing a former downtown bank building, this lively Celtic bar is a cut above standard Irish pubs.

The interior is a pleasing fusion of high ceilings and dark wood finishes and the draft selection is a buffet of classics from Ireland, France and Belgium. Friday is also popular and there are also regular live acts. The Friday and Saturday night dance parties here are the main attraction.

The latter is also home of the Victoria Symphony ; www. Shopping While Government St is a magnet for souvenir shoppers, those looking for more worthwhile purchases should head to the Johnson St stretch between Store and Government. Tops and skirts with insect prints are hot items, but there are also lots of cute handbags, socks and brooches to tempt your credit card. You can pick up all manner of tea paraphernalia here or sidle up to the tasting bar to quaff some adventurous brews.

A minitheatre walks you through the process, a tasting bar serves those who like to quaff before buying and an impressive selection of vintages is offered for sale. Flavors range from peppermint to chocolate nut.

Government St Public Market ; Government St; Sun May-Sep An eclectic mix of vendors and performers transform this stretch at the block of Government St into a bustling pedestrianized street market on summer Sundays. Air Canada Jazz , ; www.

Both airlines offer connections across Canada. Harbour Air Seaplanes , ; www. Similar West Coast Air , ; www. Regular services also arrive from the Southern Gulf Islands. Victoria Clipper , ; www. Black Ball Transport ; www. Pick up a copy of the Peninsula Times for local stories and happenings or drop by the Saanich Peninsula Visitor Centre ; Patricia Bay Hwy; ampm Jun-Sep near Sidney for tips and insights on the area. Drop by the Visitor Centre ; www. The Marine Ecology Centre ; www.

A floating barge in the marina on our visit, it was scheduled to move to swanky new premises in the Sidney Pier Hotel. You can check out the sea critters for yourself at Sidney Spit. Accessed via a short ferry ride ; www. Dominating the waterfront, the new Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa , ; www.

Victoria Regional Transit ; www. More than a century later, the cement operation is dust but the huge, elaborately manicured Butchart Gardens , ; www. Summer is crowded with the usual tour bus hordes but daily afternoon and evening music performances and Saturday-night fireworks July and August make it all worthwhile. Yuletide-loving December visitors are treated to thousands of fairy lights draped among the wintering plants.

Perched atop Observatory Hill, this government facility houses the Plaskett Telescope in use since along with several hands-on exhibits and a miniplanetarium for the astronomically inclined.

Starry-eyed visitors can crash the Star Party on Friday or Saturday evenings May to October , when the astronomers chill out, show off their equipment and tackle thorny themes from asteroids to zero gravity.

Hungry bald eagles are attracted to the fish and birdwatchers come ready with their cameras. Drop by the Sooke Region Visitor Centre , ; www. This route goes a step further by getting cyclists off the highways and into some usually unseen backcountry. Getting on and off the trails is easy since bus lines along both routes are bike-rack equipped.

You can download free maps and guides for both these routes from the Capital Regional District ; www. With surf crashing against the bluffs and a dense canopy of Douglas fir trees, it offers short strolls to the beach as well as a tough 10km coastal trail. Sooke is also the end of the line for the popular Galloping Goose cycling trail see boxed text. Rent a bike from Sooke Cycle ; www. Paintings, sculptures and carved wood line its interiors. Be aware that some sections are often muddy and difficult to hike and bear sightings are not uncommon.

The most popular is the family-friendly China Beach Campground , ; www. Booking is also required on the West Coast Trail Express , ; www.

An ideal place to wind down after a long hike, its facilities include barbecues and hot tubs. Hikers are often found lolling around outside on the picnic tables here. Contact Tourism Cowichan , ; www. Visit the Visitor Centre , ; www. Must-scoffs here include giant vegetable pakoras and the kind of cinnamon-infused rice that addictions are made of. The nearby South Shore Motel , ; www. After fuelling up, duck into the Maritime Centre ; www. Continue to the Caycus River Bridge and, just south of the bridge, turn right and follow Rosander Main for 29km to the park.

Instead of submitting to a slow death, town officials commissioned a giant wall mural depicting local history. People took notice, 34 more murals and 13 sculptures were ordered, and a new tourism industry was born. Check the Visitor Centre ; www. Favorite stops include Cherry Point Vineyards ; www.

For more information on the wineries of this area and across Vancouver Island, check www. In the evening, the surprisingly large Chemainus Theatre , ; www. Rooms are slick and comfortable and many include kitchens. Its old Edwardian banks and trading houses are now occupied by artsy shops and coffee bars.

Drop by the Visitor Centre , ; www. Downhill from the town hub, Transfer Beach Park attracts swimmers and picnickers and has summertime live music in its large amphitheater. You can also hit the water here with the help of Sealegs Kayaking Adventures , ; www.

With its own ferry service from the mainland, the city is a handy hub for exploring up-island. Nicol St leads south to Hwy 1 and the Duke Point ferry terminal. Heading north, Terminal Ave forks: the right fork becomes Stewart Ave Hwy 1 , leading to the Departure Bay ferry terminal, while the left fork becomes Hwy 19A Island Hwy and is the main up-island route.

Downtown Information Centre ; www. Bring a picnic and check out the birds hanging around the lagoon, take a short hike through the gnarly Garry oak forest or give the climbing wall your best shot. Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park ; www. Walks or hikes range from 1km strolls to a 7. Access is via a minute ferry , ; www. Overlooking downtown, the colorful Nanaimo District Museum ; www.

There are regular temporary exhibitions to keep the line-up fresh. A swanky new museum building in the city center was scheduled to open soon after our visit. This landmark fortified tower only fired occasional cannons to simmer down regional ruckuses.

Wild Play Element Parks , ; www. For scuba fans, the coastline off Nanaimo offers some great dives and the folk at Ocean Explorers Diving , ; www.

Sleeping Painted Turtle Guesthouse , ; www. Hardwood floors and IKEAesque furnishings abound while facilities range from a large and welcoming kitchen to a laundry room and en-suite showers. You can book a wide range of local activities through the front desk. Buccaneer Inn , ; www. The neat and tidy approach is carried over into the maritime-themed rooms, many with kitchenettes. It has two lovely rooms, combining antique and contemporary chintzy flourishes. Dorchester Hotel , ; www.

Inn on Long Lake , ; www. The large rooms, each with a balcony, have plenty of amenities and some have kitchenettes. It has a sauna, a fitness center and lake-bound canoes to keep you occupied, along with free continental breakfast.

The food is the main attraction, though. Drop by on Saturday and Sunday for live lunchtime music. The patio is a magnet on languid sunny days. The menu rests on the kind of wraps, burgers and sandwiches that are a cut above standard diner fare and there are some tempting small-plate options for those who want to snack or share. The locally sourced ingredients mean ever-changing specials but the favorite on our visit was Pacific halibut with Dungeness crab potato salad. In late July, the four days of marine-themed shenanigans include a street fair, a parade and a giant fireworks extravaganza, but the main event remains the big race where hundreds of salty sea dogs jump into customized bath-sized crafts and embark on a grueling 58km course.

Speedboat engines are de rigueur for the minute sprint, with thousands of spectators lining the bay for the spectacular finish. A dip in the tub will never seem the same again. The menu is also recommended and is a cut above standard pub grub. In contrast, the Port Theatre ; www. Frequent West Coast Air , ; www. BUS Greyhound Canada ; www. Getting Around Downtown Nanaimo around the harbor is highly walkable, but after that the city spreads out and a car or strong bike legs are required.

Be aware that taxis are expensive here. Nanaimo Regional Transit ; www. Bus 2 goes to the Departure Bay ferry terminal. No city buses run to Duke Point. For cabs, call AC Taxi Most visitors spend time pointing at the sky here in summer: a herd of goats lives on the roof of the main building. World Parrot Refuge ; www. This excellent educational facility preaches the mantra that parrots are not pets. Pick up your earplugs at reception and stroll among the enclosures, each alive with recovering and very noisy birds.

It has an excellent walk-through display on west coast animals and their habitats. Dedicated to treating sick or injured animals brought to its doors, the facility also has active rehabilitation programs for eagles and black bear.

Horne Lake Caves Provincial Park ; www. Even better are the three circular yurts, complete with baths, kitchens, double beds and flat-screen TVs. The rest of the campground has showers, laundry and a playground. Free Spirit Spheres ; www. Like sleeping in a small boat cabin, the cozy, wood-lined interiors include cupboards, water coolers and the larger of the two Eryn has a microwave oven.

Blue Willow Guest House ; www. The two rooms and one self-contained suite are lined with antiques and each is extremely homely. Tigh-Na-Mara Resort , ; www. Lodge rooms, cottages and condos are available, each with a rustic-chic ambiance. Drop by for some fortifying pub grub and a couple of beers or head into the slightly more upscale restaurant where fish, steak and pasta dishes jostle for menu attention.

A hearty weekend brunch is also available. The same buses, with similar times and rates, serve Qualicum Beach. The daily VIA Rail ; www. The same train, with similar times and rates, also serves Qualicum Beach.

But the double whammy of aboriginal and pioneer heritage plus easy access to some truly outstanding natural wilderness makes this an ideal spot for an off-the-beaten-path visit. For more information, check in with the Alberni Valley Visitor Centre ; www. Try hugging that. A one-stop shop for active types, Batstar Adventure Tours , ; www. Choo Kwa Ventures , ; www. You can help paddle if you want or just sit back and listen to the ancient stories and songs from the local Hupacasath people.

The breakfasts are correspondingly wholesome and the two rooms have a charming, rustic feel. Hummingbird Guesthouse , ; hummingbirdguesthouse. Its funky orange-and-blue interior provides a casual atmosphere indoors, or you can head to the patio for a side dish of panoramic inlet views. First-timers should drop by the Pacific Rim Visitor Centre ; www.

Wide sandy beaches, untamed surf, lots of beachcombing nooks and a living museum of old-growth rainforest are the main reasons for the summer tourist clamor. Safety precautions apply on all trails in the region: tread carefully over slippery surfaces and never turn your back on the mischievous surf. Long Beach Great scenery along the sandy shore easy. Rainforest Trail Two interpretive loops through old-growth forest 1km; moderate.

Schooner Trail Through old and second-growth forests with beach access 1km; moderate. Shorepine Bog Loops around a moss-layered bog m; easy and wheelchair-accessible.

South Beach Through forest to a pebble beach m; easy to moderate. Spruce Fringe Trail Loop trail featuring hardy Sitka spruce 1. Wickaninnish Trail Shoreline and forest trail 2. Extremely popular in summer book ahead , its tent sites are located on a forested terrace, with trail access to the beach. Expect fairly basic facilities: the faucets are cold but the toilets are flush. Compasses are required for navigating here, unless you fancy paddling to Hawaii.

From there, popular paddle-to points include the recommended Gibraltar Island, a one-hour kayak away. It has a sheltered campground and many explorable beaches. Willis Island 90 minutes from Sechart is also popular. It has a campground and, at low tide, you can stroll to some of the nearby islands. Staff patrols the region to keep an eye on things and collect additional fees if you decide to stay longer.

Alternatively, Broken Island Adventures , ; www. Winding between the West Coast Trail information centers at Pachena Bay ; 9am-5pm May-Sep , near Bamfield on the north end, and Gordon River ; 9am-5pm May-Sep , near Port Renfrew to the south, most trekkers take between five and eight days to complete the full route.

Since the southern section is more difficult, many hikers prefer to ease themselves in from the northern end. The trail is only accessible from May to September and there is a limit of 26 overnight backpackers starting from each end each day. Hikers can camp at any of the designated sites along the route, most of which have solar-composting outhouses. Overnight hikers who only tackle this end of the trail can leave from Nitinat Lake. Day hikers are allowed on the trail from each end, but need a free day-use permit, available from the registration centers.

West Coast Trail Express , ; www. A short drive south of town, the Visitor Centre ; www. Sights Check out what coastal temperate rainforests are all about by exploring the flora and fauna at the Tofino Botanical Gardens ; www.

Admission and programs are free but donations are appreciated and you can also support the work here by buying a couple of their excellent trail guides. Tranquility-minded trekkers travel here by Zodiac boat or seaplane, watching for whales and other sea critters en route. From the boat landing, 2km of boardwalks lead to a series of natural hot pools. Visible through the mist and accessible via kayak or tour boat from the Tofino waterfront, Meares Island is home to the Big Tree Trail, a m boardwalk through old-growth forest that includes a stunning year-old red cedar.

Situated on remote Flores Island and accessed by tour boat or kayak, Ahousat is the mystical location of the spectacular Wild Side Heritage Trail, a moderately difficult path that traverses 10km of forests, beaches and headlands between Ahousat and Cow Bay. A popular destination for kayakers, camping of the no-facilities variety is allowed here. Pacific Surf School , ; www.

The surf school Surf Sister , ; www. Remote Passages , ; www. Tofino Sea Kayaking Co , ; www. Tours Adventures Pacific , ; www.

Tla-ook Cultural Adventures , ; www. Tofino Air , ; www. Ocean Outfitters , ; www. Sleeping Clayoquot Field Station ; www. A great sleepover for nature-lovers, it has a natural history library and regular speakers and events. Dolphin Motel ; www. A short walk from Chesterman Beach, it has a barbecue area with picnic tables and a couple of self-catering units with full kitchens.

Tofino Inlet Cottages , ; www. Gull Cottage ; www. Rates include breakfast, dinner and canoe use. Pacific Sands Beach Resort , ; www. Great for groups, these huge timber-framed houses open directly onto the beach and include kitchens, stone fireplaces, slate and wood floors and ocean-view bedrooms with private decks. Built on pillars to preserve rainforest root systems, they also have energy-efficient heating systems. Wickaninnish Inn , ; www. Embodying nature with recycled old-growth furniture, natural stone tiles and the atmosphere of a place grown rather than constructed, the sumptuous guest rooms have push-button gas fireplaces, two-person hot tubs and private balconies.

Pampering has rarely felt better. Head upstairs to the swish new lounge for cocktails and great views across the inlet. Our menu favorite here is the shrimp and crab dumplings. Now affiliated with Greyhound Canada you can book via the www. The route runs daily year-round and twice daily from mid-March to mid-November. In fact, the town has expanded in recent years to cope with visitor demand, successfully avoiding some of the growing-pain pitfalls experienced by Tofino.

For information, head to the Visitor Centre ; www. In contrast, the poke-worthy tide pools and kelp beds at Big Beach make it a great kid-friendly spot. If you want to stretch your sea legs, Subtidal Adventures , ; www. The highlight is the landscaped, lounge-worthy garden overlooking the inlet, complete with hammocks and a rope swing.

With a full kitchen and its own deck and barbecue, it sleeps up to seven. Canadian Princess Resort , ; www. Drop by in the afternoon for coffee and sprinkle-topped cakes.

Denman has three provincial parks: Fillongley ; www. Ships Point Inn , ; www. The four-course breakfast, sometimes with oysters, will have you leaping from your bed.

Sea Breeze Lodge , ; www. You can swim, kayak and fish here or just flop lazily into the cliff-side hot tub. The rates, reduced for unders, include three daily meals. Nosh on some pizza for lunch or just drop in to talk to a resident Denman artist over a java and a muffin. Summer evenings feature a barbecue buffet specializing in fresh local fare, while the main menu focuses on hearty soups, sandwiches and burgers.

A good base for outdoor adventures across the region, its highlight is the Mt Washington resort. Drop by the area Visitor Centre , ; www.

The main reason for most visits, Mt Washington Alpine Resort , ; www. But there are also some great summer activities here, including horseback riding, fly-fishing, alpine hiking and mountain biking. In addition, outdoors types should consider Miracle Beach Provincial Park ; www. It has two basement suites, each with their own entrance, and the chatty host will regale you with some colorful local stories.

The fish tacos are ace and the locals often keep this place packed at meal times. The Visitor Centre , ; www. Much easier than catching your own lunch, you can also buy fish and chips here.

Rates include continental breakfast and the three-room suites and cabins are recommended for small groups. The loft rooms are massive and comfortably sleep up to four. Dolphins Resort , ; www. The cabins have a cozy, rustic feel and each has a full kitchen with porch barbecue rentals available.

Most also have outdoor hot tubs. Oysters, halibut burgers and fish and chips dot the menu, while intriguing historic photos of Campbell River dot the walls.

Campbell River Transit ; www. Tsa-Kwa-Luten Lodge ; ; www. Whiskey Point Resort ; www. Heriot Bay Inn , ; www. The menu highlights are hearty soups, bean burgers and heaping salads.

Both Quadra and Cortes are fairly large, so it can be challenging to get around without a car. Luckily, many accommodations will pick you up from the ferry. The 9km Comox Glacier Trail is quite an adventure but is only recommended for advanced hikers. Around Buttle Lake, easier walks include Lady Falls m and the trail along Karst Creek 2km , which winds past sinkholes, percolating streams and tumbling waterfalls. You can get close to nature by pitching your tent at Buttle Lake Campground , ; www.

The swimming area and playground here make this a good choice for families. Begun 50 years ago as an outdoor education center, the highly recommended Strathcona Park Lodge ; www. In keeping with its low-impact proximity to nature, there are no telephones or TVs in the rooms, which range from college-style bedrooms to secluded timber-framed cottages.

The lodge is a one-stop-shop for a range of activities, including kayaking, yoga, ziplining and rock climbing. Outside visitors are welcomed at these facilities. For information, drop by the Visitor Centre ; www. Ask here about organized and self-guided caving tours to the m of passages and 16 known entrances of Upana Caves, north of town on the gravel road toward Tahsis. And if you fancy a fish, Nootka Sound Fishing Charters , ; www. For a more relaxing encounter with the region, try a day-trip sail with Nootka Sound Service ; www.

Accommodations and one meal are included. With some surprisingly upscale rooms, some with microwaves and gas fires, Ridgeview Motor Inn , ; www. It also has fish-cleaning facilities and barbecues so you can prep and scoff your catch of the day. If your trip to BC is all about encountering the untamed wilderness close up, this is the place for you. Despite the remoteness, some areas are remarkably accessible to hardy hikers, especially with the long-awaited arrival of the North Coast Trail.

For further information on the region, contact Tourism North Vancouver Island , ; www. Its pioneer outpost feel is enhanced by the dozens of wooden buildings standing around the marina on stilts, but the place can get surprisingly crowded in summer. The road into the resort was recently paved for the first time, encouraging a new hotel and housing development.

Head along the boardwalk to the smashing Whale Interpretive Centre , ; www. Stubbs Island Whale-watching , ; www. Its sunset cruise is highly recommended. For a grizzly or black bear alternative, Tide Rip Tours , ; www. The established Telegraph Cove Resorts , ; www. The nearby new Dockside 29 , ; www. Its rooms have kitchenettes with hardwood floors and waterfront views. Drop by the log-cabin Visitor Centre ; www. More a superior motel than a resort, the hilltop Black Bear Resort , ; www.

The standard rooms are small but clean and include microwaves and fridges; full-kitchen units are also available. Rates include a good continental breakfast buffet and use of a free-access computer in the lobby. Regular BC Ferries , ; www. Alert Bay Located on Cormorant Island in the Inside Passage, this visitor-friendly village of has an ancient and mythical appeal. Its First Nations community and traditions are still prevalent, but its blend with an old pioneer fishing settlement makes it an even more fascinating day trip from Port McNeill.

Singing, dancing and barbecues are often held here, while modern-day totem pole carvers usually work their magic out front. For a nature-based tranquility highlight, amble along the mossy walk of giant cedar trees at Alert Bay Ecological Park also known as Gator Gardens. If the ocean is calling you, Seasmoke Whale Watching , ; www. Head to the Visitor Centre ; www. A one-stop-shop for outdoors activities, Sea Legend , ; www. For dedicated dive fans, Catala Charters , ; www. They also offer fishing, kayaking and aboriginal cultural tours.

Reservations are required. North Island Transportation ; nit island. From the parking area, take the relatively easy 2. Now mostly reclaimed by the forest, you can still see the crumbling homes and stores of these settlers, most of whom eventually left when a promised road from the south failed to materialize and life became too tough. Consider a guided trek with North Island Daytrippers , ; www. Once colonized by hippy-dippy Canadian drop-outs and fugitive US draft dodgers, Salt Spring, Galiano, Mayne, Saturna and the North and South Penders are the natural retreat of choice for many in the region.

Not all the islands are created equal, of course. Wherever you decide to head, the soothing relaxation begins once you step on the ferry to get here: time suddenly slows, your heart rate drops to hibernation level and the scenery of forested isles and glassy water slides by like a slow-motion nature documentary.

During your ferry trip, pick up a free copy of the Gulf Islands Driftwood www. From Mayne, you can connect to Saturna. From the mainland, there is a direct service from Tsawwassen to Galiano, which then connects to North Pender.

For more frequent services to these and the other islands, you will need to travel from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay, then board a connecting ferry. Gulf Islands Water Taxi ; www. Seair Seaplanes , ; www. You can also visit local artisans with a downloadable self-guided studio map from Salt Spring Island Studio Tour ; www.

Pick a favorite for lunch then add to your feast with a bottle from Salt Spring Vineyards ; www.

 
 

Buy Magic Mushrooms in Vancouver BC | Canada Shroom.exuper: Canada (part-3)

 

In the City of Vancouver, buying magic mushrooms, in at least one case, can be as easy as ordering your morning cup of coffee. Many of them tout the benefits of psilocybin, an hallucinogenic compound found in mushrooms that the medical community has been studying for its therapeutic use in treating mental health conditions and end-of-life distress.

From the outside, the mushroom dispensary on the edge of Vancouver’s Downtown Eastside makes no attempt to hide the federally controlled substance it offers. Its owner, Dana Larsen — no stranger to bending the law in the name of drug reform — is proud of his products. Larsen’s dispensary offers psilocybin mushroom products both in sub-hallucinogenic micro-doses, and for higher doses, the filling out of a medical form.

The drug has been illegal since , yet these four dispensaries are operating openly in broad daylight. The Vancouver Police Department acknowledges psilocybin is illegal and those connected to it could face charges but admits it’s focused on landing bigger fish.

Tania Visintin in a statement. Last year, the former health minister started using her authority under a section of the act to grant legal exemptions for psilocybin, mainly to people with terminal illness and treatment-resistant depression. But the City of Vancouver says there are currently no regulations federally, provincially, or municipally that allow for the recreational sale of magic mushrooms.

Spencer Hawkswell is the CEO of not-for-profit TheraPsil, which helps Canadians in medical need obtain federal exemptions to access medical psilocybin. But he says it’s a complicated process, with each request needing to be approved by the federal health minister. So far, his coalition has helped more than 80 Canadians access the drug.

The number of Canadians out there who are seeing this research, who are fed up with the treatment options that aren’t working and realize they don’t have alternatives, they’re looking for support.

Canada just recently changed its rules on access to psilocybin for medical use, denying it in January to a terminal cancer patient. Research into psilocybin has found it can be an effective treatment for mental health conditions and addiction. A study published in February found it produced rapid and substantial antidepressants effects in patients with major depressive disorder but also pointed out little is still known about long-term outcomes.

In Vancouver, a company at the forefront of this research is Numinus Wellness. It offers clinical trials of psychedelic-assisted psychotherapy.

Devon Christie, senior lead of psychedelic programs at Numinus, says in our regular state of consciousness, we have been conditioned to think in one specific way. And neuroplasticity, this ability for new connections to form and forge, is enhanced,” she said.

Patients will often gain new insights and can undergo transformative experiences, she says, while accessing repressed emotions, memories and trauma. However, it isn’t a process patients should undergo alone but in a controlled setting, paired with a licensed clinician, she said.

When it comes to micro-dosing, the practice of consuming very low, sub-hallucinogenic doses of a psychedelic substance, she says the research is still too limited to determine whether the noted benefits were the results of psilocybin or a placebo effect.

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Please note that CBC does not endorse the opinions expressed in comments. Comments on this story are moderated according to our Submission Guidelines. Comments are welcome while open. We reserve the right to close comments at any time. Join the conversation Create account. Already have an account? British Columbia Magic mushroom dispensaries operating openly in Vancouver In the City of Vancouver, buying magic mushrooms, in at least one case, can be as easy as ordering your morning cup of coffee.

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Canada day vancouver island’s magic mushrooms species 1995 jeep

 

Enjoy your meal on the rooftop patio. Daily lunch specials include Jambalaya with cornbread, quiche and salad and a range of wholesome, hefty sandwiches.

The largely authentic, south-of-the-border food, including tamales and enormous burritos, is savory, plentiful and never greasy. The Mexican drinks go down well with the Latin music, too. Great for a casual, flavorful meal. No alcohol. Have a freshly-made pastry and iced coffee under the trees or a hearty German meal in the homey schnitzel parlor.

Open for dinner by reservation only. Dishes range from coconut curry with mussels and maple baked salmon to pasta incorporating local sausage and mushrooms. The Atlantic salmon is superb. Among other things, he gave it an art gallery in It includes an impressive collection of European masters. They thought the time had come for them to be sent across the pond. The art gallery board said to forget it.

Then things got ugly and litigious. In , an independent arbitrator ruled that of the artworks in dispute, 85 were gifts from Lord Beaverbrook to the gallery. Forty-eight other mainly minor works had to go back. The current Lord Beaverbrook has appealed the decision. Pub meals are served daily, too. Lunar Rogue Pub ; King St; am Lunar Rogue has a good beer selection and a fine assortment of single malts. Try Picaroons, the local microbrew and enjoy summer on the patio.

For the scoop on concerts, art gallery openings and other happenings around town, pick up a copy of [here] www.

They were covered to protect their load-bearing timbers from rot and to keep the snow off and are generally high and wide because cartloads of hay pulled by horses had to pass over them. As recently as , there were bridges in New Brunswick. Today, 64 bridges remain, more than anywhere else in Canada. Though age, fire and flooding have taken their toll, most of the bridges are still part of the secondary road network, not idle relics.

Click here for flight details. In-province visitors can get a one-day pass. Avis, Budget, Hertz and National car rental agencies Click here all have desks at the airport and downtown.

Service is halved on weekends. Two automobile routes carve through the valley: the quicker Trans-Canada Hwy Hwy 2 , mostly on the west side of the river, and the more scenic old Hwy on the east side, which meanders through many villages. A community of costumed staff create a living museum by role-playing in 11 houses, a school, church, store and sawmill typical of those used a century ago, providing a glimpse and taste of pioneer life in the Maritimes.

Demonstrations and events are staged throughout the day and horse-drawn carts shunt visitors around. The prosperous Loyalist life reflected here can be tellingly compared to that at the Acadian Historic Village in Caraquet.

Situated where the Meduxnekeag River flows into the St John River, it has a historical core of lovingly preserved Victorian homes and public buildings. It serves colorful, healthful fare like quiche, soups, salads, sandwiches, luscious desserts, coffee, a local microbrew and martinis to world beat music.

Acadian Lines bus stops at the Irving convenience store ; Connell St. The photogenic m-long Hartland covered bridge over the St John River was erected in and is a national historic site. The picnic tables overlooking the river and the bridge at the tourist information center are five-star lunch spots fixings at the grocery store across the road.

Otherwise, the village has a rather forlorn atmosphere. Check-in is after 5pm. A far more scenic route albeit about twice as long follows the gentle, meandering St John River through rolling farmland and a couple of historic villages down to the Fundy coast. Start on the north side of the river in Fredericton, and follow Rte south through Maugerville to Jemseg. At Exit , pick up Rte South which will take you to the Gagetown ferry landing admission free; 24hr, year-round.

This is the first of a system of eight free cable ferries that crisscross the majestic St John River en route to the city of Saint John. You will never have to wait more that a few minutes for the crossing, which generally takes five to 10 minutes. The top-notch staff will show you through the exhibits spanning pre-colonial aboriginal history in the area, 18th-century settler life, and up to WWII. Gagetown Cider Company ; Fox Rd; pm offers tours by appointment.

Explore scenic Gagetown Creek by boat. Gagetown Camping ; www. The grand old farmhouses and weathered hay barns dotted at hundred acre intervals along the valley belong to that earlier age. The hilly 42km piece of road between Gagetown and the ferry landing at Evandale admission free; 24hr, year-round is especially picturesque, with glorious panoramic views of fields full of wildflowers, white farm houses and clots of green and gold islands set in the intensely blue water of the river.

A hundred years ago, Evandale was a bustling little place, where a dance band would entertain riverboat passengers stopping off for the night at the now abandoned Everleigh Hotel the big Victorian mansion up from the ferry landing.

On the other side of the water, Rte takes you the short distance to the Belleisle ferry admission free; 24hr, year-round. The ferry deposits you on the rural Kingston Peninsula, where you can cross the peninsula to catch the Gondola Point Ferry admission free; 24hr, year-round and head directly into Saint John. In this area, school kids are still given two weeks off in the autumn to help bring in the harvest.

Especially engaging are the archival photographs and recorded oral histories of local elders recounting a hardscrabble life growing up in the New Brunswick potato belt. The museum is 2km off Hwy 2 at Exit toward Centreville on Rte If you are cycling up the valley on the Trans Canada Trail Click here or looking for a bed for the night, there are two appealing options in the area.

Besides the Harvest Cafe see opposite , Florenceville has a half-dozen middle-of-the-road restaurants serving three meals a day. Mt Carleton is little known and relatively unvisited, even in midsummer. Hunting and logging are prohibited in the park, and all roads are gravel-surfaced. The nearest town is Riley Brook, 30km away, so bring all food and a full tank of gas.

At the entrance to the park is a visitors centre ; www. There is also another office ; dnr. In the park itself, the Nictau and Nipisiguit chains of lakes offer easy day-tripping through a landscape of tree-clad mountains.

For experienced canoeists, the shallow and swift Little Tobique River rises at Big Nictau Lake, winding in tight curls through dense woods until it joins the Tobique itself at Nictau. The more remote Nepisiguit River flows out of the Nepisiguit Lakes through the wilderness until it empties into the Bay of Chaleur at Bathurst, over kilometers away.

The lower reaches of the Tobique, from Nictau, through minute Riley Brook and down to Plaster Rock is a straight, easy paddle through forest and meadow that gives way to farmland as the valley broadens, with a couple of waterfront campgrounds along the way. Fiddles on the Tobique ; late Jun is a weekend festival held annually in Nictau and Riley Brook. It is a magical idea: a round of community hall suppers, jam sessions and concerts culminating in a Sunday afternoon floating concert down the Tobique River from Nictau to Riley Brook.

By some accounts, the event has been damaged by its own popularity, devolving into a boisterous booze cruise. Others call it a grand party and good fun. On land, Bill Miller ; www. Also worth a stop is the Tobique Salmon Barrier admission free; 9am-5pm , signposted from the road at Nictau, located at the confluence of the Little Tobique and Campbell Rivers. There is a spectacular view from the Department of Fisheries office situated on a bluff overlooking the water.

From here, officers keep a hour watch on the Atlantic salmon, which are trucked up by road from below the Mactaquac Dam at Fredericton and held here until spawning time, in order to protect their dwindling numbers from poachers. The knowledgeable staff oversee demonstration projects devoted to organic agriculture, wind and solar power, biodiesel production and straw-bale construction. You can tour the site, hike 10km of forest trails and enjoy the view atop Skedaddle Ridge named for the American Civil War draft-dodgers who settled here , or sign up for a weekend workshop a calendar of events is on the website.

The center is a half-hour drive from Hartland. Call or check the website for directions, pack a picnic and enjoy the scenery along the way.

The park has a 62km network of trails, most of them are loops winding to the handful of rocky knobs that are the peaks. The easiest peak to climb is Mt Bailey; a 7. Most hikers can walk this route in three hours. Plan on three to four hours for the trek and pack your parka; the wind above the tree line can be brutal. The most scenic hike is the Sagamook Trail, a 6km loop to a m peak with superlative vistas of Nictau Lake and the highlands area to the north of it; allow three hours for this trek.

All hikers intending to follow any long trails must register at the visitors center or park headquarters before hitting the trail. Outside the camping season mid-May to mid-September , you should call ahead to make sure the main gate will be open, as the Mt Carleton trailhead is With so few sites available, the park campground can occasionally fill up.

Reservations are suggested, by sending an email to the park office Click here in St Quentin. Williams Brook and Franquelin Campgrounds and the backcountry Headwaters campsite in the park were all closed at the time of research due to government budget cuts.

It has toilets, showers and a kitchen shelter, but no sites with hookups. RV drivers often have their noisy generators running, so tenters should check out the eight tent-only sites along Armstrong Brook on the north side of the campground.

A grand log hunting lodge set on the banks on the Tobique River, it is busiest during fall hunting season, but is also a supremely relaxing base for hikers, canoeists and wildlife enthusiasts. There is also a pool table, big screen TV, floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace, a few dining tables and huge picture windows framing a serene view of the river slipping by just a few meters away. The cozy log-walled guest rooms are spick and span and nicely accented with plaid fabrics.

A long, deep verandah invites lounging after dinner. The town of Plaster Rock, situated 54km downriver toward the Trans-Canada Hwy Rye , also has several serviceable motels and a couple of casual restaurants.

The Grand Falls are best in spring or after heavy rain. In summer, much of the water is diverted for generating hydroelectricity, yet the gorge appeals any time. Among the displays is a scale model of the gorge showing its extensive trail system. Buy the boat ticket at La Rochelle first, as it includes the stairway to the base of the gorge.

Maple Tourist Home , ; www. The Acadian Lines bus stops at the Irving gas station ; Broadway , right in the center of town. Hwy known locally as the Renous Hwy cuts across the province through Plaster Rock to the east coast, slicing through forest for nearly its entirety. It is most tedious, but fast.

Watch out for deer and moose. For many, this affection obsession? Twenty rinks are plowed on Roulston Lake, which is ringed by tall evergreens, hot chocolate stands and straw-bale seating for the odd spectators drawn to the four-day event. The tournament is wildly popular, with amateur four-person teams traveling in from all 13 Canadian provinces and territories, 35 American states to date, and 15 countries as far flung as England, Egypt and the Cayman Islands.

Anyone can register to play, but they will have to defeat the Boston Danglers, who scrambled over squads like the Skateful Dead, the Raggedy Ass River Boys and the Boiled Owls to put a lock on the championship trophy several years running. If you want to play, register early. If you want to watch, pack your long johns and a toque wool hat and book your accommodation asap. If the motels are full, the organizers keep a list of local folks willing to billet out-of-towners in their homes for the weekend.

Nevertheless, it makes a convenient stopover for those traveling east from Quebec. Here there are 80, plants to brighten your day, all accompanied by classical music! Kids might prefer the insectarium. In summer, simple institutional rooms are available at University of Moncton ; www. Several motels line the Hwy and old Hwy 2 Boul Acadie. A city landmark since the s, this is a total classic right down to the seasoned, uniformed waitresses.

The you-name-it menu includes more-than- acceptable Italian, Chinese, seafood and basic Canadian fare. The bus terminal ; Victoria is across the street from the Bel Air restaurant. The resort town of St Andrews, the serene Fundy Isles, fine seaside scenery and rich history make this easily one of the most appealing regions of the province.

Whale-watching is a thrilling area activity. Most commonly seen are the fin, humpback and minke, and less so, the increasingly rare right whale. Porpoises and dolphins are plentiful. It is home to Ganong, a family-run chocolate business operating since , whose products are known around eastern Canada.

Once a year, during Chocolate Fest ; www. You can walk the main street easily from here. There are also a few run-down motels on the outskirts of town if you are desperate. In Bangor, immediate connections are available to Boston and New York. They leave from the Angelhom restaurant, but call to confirm the location as this changes.

In Bangor, buses use the Greyhound terminal and connect to Bangor airport. Greyhound passes cannot be used from Calais.

Blessed with a fine climate and picturesque beauty, it also has a colorful history. Busy with holidaymakers and summer residents in July and August, the rest of the year there are more seagulls than people. King St is its main cross street. The main tourist office ; www. Sights Huntsman Aquarium Museum ; www. The aquarium features most specimens found in local waters, including seals feedings at 11am and 4pm and sharks.

Kids love the touch pool. The research center also offers week-long summer field courses for amateur enthusiasts both students and adults. His former cottage of 50 rooms and the unusual bathhouse with its tidal swimming pool can be visited at low tide when you can drive on the hard-packed sea floor. Be careful! Two-hour visits, by tour only, run once or twice a day, depending on the tides. You must use your own vehicle. Various changing exhibits run through summer.

Stretching for km along the international border, the forest-ringed Chiputneticook Lakes offer canoeing enthusiasts the chance to slip away into the wild for a few weeks. It includes the St Croix River, a popular three- to four-day paddling route beginning south of the lakes.

There are a couple of fishing lodges on Palfrey Lake accessible via Rte Day-trippers can use the scenic lake-shore campsites at Spednik Lake Provincial Park free; maintained by volunteers where there is a hiking trail through the woods, primitive toilets and fire rings. Bring your own water. Take Rte 3 north from St Stephen then bear left on Rte to reach the park gate.

Canoe rentals are available in Saint John and Fredericton. Note: the lakes are not patrolled by the park service, and paddlers should be experienced and well-equipped.

The park is at the northwest end of Water St. Centennial Park, opposite the blockhouse, has a picnic pavilion. Atlantic Salmon Interpretive Centre ; www.

Activities Eastern Outdoors ; www. Tours Several companies offering boat trips and whale-watching cruises have offices at the Adventure Destinations complex by the wharf at the foot of King St. Sleeping Kiwanis Oceanfront Camping ; www. Picket Fence Motel ; www. There are ocean views from the garden. No tax, check or cash only. Treadwell Inn , ; www. Fairmont Algonquin Hotel , ; www. Note the doormen dressed in kilts.

There are a couple of places for a drink, be it high tea or gin. Sadly, these days, there is nowhere in town to hear live music. Cocktails are available at the Fairmont Algonquin Hotel. Food-wise, there are several nice choices.

Pesto pizza, smoked meat sandwiches and crepes for lunch; crab cakes, salmon and steak for dinner. With grand scenery, colorful fishing wharves tucked into coves, supreme whale-watching, uncluttered walking trails and steaming dishes of seafood, everyday stresses fade away and blood pressure eases. The three main islands each have a distinct personality. They offer a memorable, gradually absorbed peace. Out of the summer season, all are nearly devoid of visitors and most services are shut.

The 16km-by-5km island has been inhabited since , and people live here year-round. Lobster is the main catch and there are half a dozen wharves around the island. Narrow, winding roads run south down each side toward Campobello Island and the ferry drive defensively. Another massive pound squirms at Northern Harbor. Whales pass occasionally. At the end of Cranberry Head Rd is a deserted beach. Most land on the island is privately owned, so there are no hiking trails. Tours Whales usually arrive in mid-June and stay until October.

Multiday island-jumping camping trips also available. Cash or cheque only and reservations are required. Ask to see Herman, the monster lobster. Deer Island Point Park ; www. The campground is directly above the Campobello ferry landing. The ferries run year-round every half hour from 7am to 7pm, and hourly from 7pm to 10pm.

Get in line early on a busy day. For service to Campobello, Click here. The wealthy have long been enjoying Campobello as a summer retreat. Due to its accessibility and proximity to New England, it feels as much a part of the USA as of Canada, and most of the tourists here are Americans.

Like many moneyed families, the Roosevelts bought property in this peaceful coastal area at the end of the s and it is for this that the island is best known. The southern half of Campobello is almost all park and a golf course occupies still more. They generally use the same bridge to go elsewhere in New Brunswick, as the Deer Island ferry only runs in summer. For further information try the tourist office ; www.

Adjacent Hubbard House admission free , built in , is open to visitors. The grounds around all of these buildings are open all the time, and you can peek through the windows when the doors are closed.

The park is just 2. Unlike the manicured museum area, most of the international park has been left in its natural state to preserve the flora and fauna that Roosevelt appreciated so much. A couple of gravel roads meander through it, leading to beaches and 7. Deer, moose and coyote call it home and seals can sometimes be seen offshore on the ledges near Lower Duck Pond, 6km from the visitors center.

Look for eagles, ospreys and loons. This park has another 10km of walking trails as well as a campground and a picnic area on an arching 1.

It makes a fine, picturesque place for lunch. Whales browse offshore and many people sit along the rocky shoreline with a pair of binoculars enjoying the sea breezes. Lupine Lodge ; www. This very casual spot also has sandwiches and burgers.

The ferry departs every half hour between am and pm 6pm in June and September. As the ferry from the mainland rounds the northern tip of Grand Manan Island pop , Swallowtail Lighthouse looms into view, poised atop a rocky, moss-covered cliff. Brightly painted fishing boats bob in the harbor. Up from the ferry dock, the tidy village of North Head spreads out along the shore; a scattering of clapboard houses and shops surrounded by well-tended flower gardens and tall leafy trees.

Grand Manan is a peaceful, unspoiled place. There are no fast-food restaurants, no trendy coffee houses or nightclubs, no traffic lights and no traffic. Just a ruggedly beautiful coastline of high cliffs and sandy coves interspersed with spruce forest and fields of tall grass. Along the eastern shore and joined by a meandering coastal road sit a string of pretty and prosperous fishing villages.

There is plenty of fresh sea air and that rare and precious commodity in the modern world: silence, broken only by the rhythmic ocean surf. Some people make it a day trip, but lingering is recommended.

The main road, Rte , runs You can drive from end to end in about 45 minutes. A hiking trail provides access to this wilderness. For further information on the area try the tourist information office , ; www. Access is via steep stairs and a slightly swaying suspension bridge. Since the light was automated in , the site has been left to the elements.

Nevertheless, the grassy bluff is a stupendous setting for a picnic. It has a wrap-around view of the horizon and seals raiding the heart-shaped fishing weirs below. All of the approximately 30 weirs dotting the waters around Grand Manan are named, some dating back to the 19th century.

A tear made by a marauding seal in a net can free an entire catch of herring in a single night. Grand Manan Historical Museum ; www. Its diverse collection of local artifacts provides a quick primer on island history. Here you can see a display on shipwreck lore and the original kerosene lamp from nearby Gannet Rock lighthouse There is also a room stuffed with plus taxidermied birds including the now extinct passenger pigeon. Much of its charm comes from the fishing boats, wharves and herring smoking sheds clustered around the tidal creek mouth.

For a century, smoked herring was king on Grand Manan. A thousand men and women worked splitting, stringing and drying fish in smokehouses up and down the island.

The last smokehouse shut down in Although herring is still big business around here, it is now processed at a modern cannery. Activities Sea Watch Tours , ; www.

Reservations are essential. With species of birds, Grand Manan also attracts hard-core birders. Atlantic puffins return in their thousands each year to hatch their young on this isolated slab of rock. Reservations essential. Seventy kilometers of hiking trails crisscross and circle the island. Stay well away from the cliff edges! Unstable, undercut ground can give away beneath your feet.

For an easy hike, try the shoreline path from Long Pond to Red Point 1. The Flock of Sheep trail to Southern Head 2. Alternatively, Adventure High ; www. The Grand Manan Historical Museum presents weekly lectures on local history and culture and runs art courses some weekends. Notices for church dinners and blueberry teas are posted on bulletin boards in local shops. Get down by the trees to block the wind. Anchorage adjoins some marshes, which comprise a migratory bird sanctuary, and there are several short hiking trails.

Hole-in-the-Wall Campground , ; www. These spectacular cliff-top campsites are secluded among the rocks and trees, with fire pits, picnic tables and breathtaking views.

Choose an inland site if you sleepwalk or suffer from vertigo. Showers and laundry facilities are available, as well as a couple of spotless simple cabins, furnished with bunk beds and a microwave. Housed in the old general store, there are bright, airy and clean modern rooms above the restaurant built right on the wharf. Great meals and very convenient for early morning puffin-watching departures. Compass Rose , off-season ; www. Inn at Whale Cove ; www. The main lodge built in and half a dozen vine-covered and shingled cottages retain the charm of that earlier era.

They are fitted with polished pine floors and stone fireplaces, antiques, chintz curtains and well-stocked bookshelves. Some have kitchens. Eating The never abundant options are nearly nonexistent in the off-season from October to early June.

That said, there is some fine eating on Grand Manan. Reservations are essential for dinner due to limited table-space island-wide. Tea on the verandah facing the water is a cherished afternoon tradition. Oven-warm scones are served with homemade rosehip, gooseberry and raspberry jam and pots of hot tea and or rhubarb punch. Credit cards not accepted. Sit at the lunch counter with a coffee and sandwich and watch the parade.

Nevertheless, it is one of the few spots open for lunch and year-round, serving filling burgers, sandwiches, fish and chips, lifeless salads and ice cream, with a couple of pool tables and televised sports. The menu changes daily, but includes mouth-watering meals such as curried squash soup or crab cakes followed by salmon crusted with walnut arugula pesto or lobster and spinach risotto with hazelnut creme caramel to-die-for for dessert.

Come early and have a cocktail by the fire in the cozy old-fashioned parlor. The international boundary has never been determined in these waters, and sovereignty over the island is claimed by both the USA and Canada.

Canada has maintained a lighthouse on the rocky, isolated outcropping since The island is also claimed by pairs of Atlantic puffins mated for life and pairs of terns who return each summer to hatch and raise their young. What do you do all day out there in the middle of the Bay of Fundy? A lot of people need to be distracted.

Our mandate is to ensure the proper operation of the marine aids. We file weather reports, fix what needs to be fixed. You are getting ready to leave the day you arrive. In recent years, he has witnessed the dramatic decline in the tern breeding colony on the island.

A couple of years ago, the terns abandoned their nests just as the eggs were hatching. The following year, only a handful of pairs returned to nest. Their absence leaves the tiny puffins vulnerable to the predatory black-backed gulls. In July and August especially there can be long queues for vehicles to board, but cyclists and pedestrians can walk on at any time.

No ticket is required for the trip over; book and pay for your return trip in North Head the day before you plan to leave for the mainland. The crossing takes an hour and a half. Watch for harbor porpoises and whales en route. The ferry dock is within walking distance of several hotels, restaurants, shops and tour operators. To explore the whole of the island, you should bring your own car, as there is no rental company on Grand Manan.

You can spend an enjoyable few hours hiking Barnaby Head along a 6km network of nature trails. Extending from this loop is the 2. Drawbacks are the gravel emplacements and traffic noise. It can take a bit of imagination to appreciate this natural beauty, obscured as it is by the smoke stacks of a pulp mill, oil refinery and garden variety urban blight.

The city is surrounded by an ugly scurf of industrial detritus and a tangle of concrete overpasses. But those who push their way through all this to the historic core are rewarded with beautifully preserved redbrick and sandstone 19th-century architecture and glimpses of the sea down steep, narrow side streets. Though Samuel de Champlain landed in , the area remained pretty much a wilderness until , when about people loyal to Britain arrived from republican America.

By the midth century Saint John had become a prosperous industrial town, important particularly for its wooden shipbuilding.

In , two-thirds of the city, including most of the mercantile district, was reduced to ashes by fire. It was soon rebuilt. Today, a large percentage of the population works in heavy industry, at the Irving pulp mill, the Irving refinery, the new Irving liquefied natural gas LNG terminal, the Irving gas stations and convenience stores, the Irving home renovation business or the Moosehead brewery. Kings Sq marks the nucleus of town, and its pathways duplicate the pattern of the Union Jack.

Water St borders the redeveloped waterfront area with Market Sq. On Courtenay Bay, to the east, are the dry dock and much heavy industry. North of town is Rockwood Park, a recreational area.

Many of the street names in this section of the city are identical to those of Saint John proper, and to avoid confusion, they end in a west designation, such as Charlotte St W. Ask for the self-guided walking-tour pamphlets. From a modest beginning selling cars, he built up a business Goliath spanning oil refining, shipyards, mass media, transportation, pulp and paper, gas stations, convenience stores and more.

The name is everywhere. KC died in , leaving his three sons to carry on the vast Irving Group empire. Reversing Falls The Bay of Fundy tides and their effects Click here are a predominant regional characteristic.

The falls here are part of that and are one of the best-known sites in the province. When the high Bay of Fundy tides rise, the current in the river reverses, causing the water to flow upstream.

When the tides go down, the water flows in the normal way. Generally, it looks like rapids. The Georgian-style place is now a museum, depicting the Loyalist period and contains some fine carpentry. The mood-inducing cemetery, with fading tombstones from as early as , is just off Kings Sq, in a park-style setting in the center of town. For those with vehicles and an appreciation of nature, Irving Nature Park ; west end of Sand Cove Rd; admission free; 8am-dusk early May-early Nov is a must for its rugged, unspoiled coastal topography.

Seals may be seen on the rocks offshore. Seven trails of varying lengths lead around beaches, cliffs, woods, mudflats, marsh and rocks. Good footwear is recommended. Take Hwy 1 west from town and turn south at Exit , Bleury St. Then turn right on Sand Cove Rd and continue for 2km to the entrance. Return to beginning of chapter TOURS Many have asked, but whale-watching is not an attraction in Saint John, save for the very occasional, very wayward minke. Two tours daily.

At am the bus leaves Reversing Falls and takes 15 minutes to get to each of the other two stops. The trip is reversed from pm to 1pm. The walks have so much flair that locals as well as visitors frequent the fun. Departure locations and hours vary; check with the visitors center.

Gibson Creek Canoeing ; www. Count on getting soaked. There are also a couple of upscale chain hotels uptown downtown.

Rockwood Park ; www. Sir James Dunn Residence ; www. Chipman Hill Suites ; www. Chipman has taken 10 historic properties around downtown, renovated them into mini-apartments with kitchens while leaving all the character, and rents them out by the day, week or month. Size and features determine price, but all are a steal. Homeport , ; www. Mahogany Manor , ; www. Apart from the fresh produce stalls and bakeries, there are numerous counters selling a range of delectable prepared meals and foods, even lobster.

Take a picnic and stop along the way at Mispec Beach, where there is swimming and hiking trails in a lovely, sheltered cove. Enjoy it while you can, because the cranes are already at work offshore building the LNG terminal at Mispec Beach. The area around the lighthouse will be the site of the first new oil refinery built in North America since , an Irving Oil project.

To the outrage of local environmentalists, the federal government waived its right or responsibility to conduct a full environmental assessment of the proposed refinery. Critics fear increased air pollution and the increased risk of oil and gas spills in the bay. Supporters welcome the work and its economic spin-offs. Keep going. All have live music several nights a week and a wide selection of local microbrews and imported beers.

For weekly goings on, pick up the free [here] entertainment paper, available around town. Call for schedule and ticket information. Click here for flight info. Leave the city folk behind, continuing on Rte into the bustling community of Hampton, where you pick up Rte , which follows the north side of the Kennebecasis River through farm country and the villages of Norton and Apohaqui into Sussex pop.

Sussex is a working farming community nestled in a green valley dotted with dairy farms. The old-fashioned main street could be a movie set for a heartwarming s coming-of-age story but please, enough with the outdoor murals! Two other appealing options, both in rambling 19th-century houses, are Maple Shade Tourist Home ; 43 Church St; www.

On a country road in a quiet valley settled by German and Dutch farmers, this place could have been transported beer steins and all from the Black Forest. The decor is Bavarian hunting lodge, with a low timbered ceilings, heavy wooden furniture and cheerful blue and white checked table cloths.

The plates of schnitzel and sausages made on the family farm are plain beautiful, decorated with purple cabbage, fresh-picked greens and creamy white dumplings, with hearty flavors to match. Despite being more-or-less in the middle of nowhere, this place is always packed for dinner, so reservations are recommended.

To get there, pick up the Sussex and Area Regional Map at the tourist information center or ask a local. The views of the valley from Hwy 1 between Hampton and Sussex are also lovely. It stops at Kings Sq in the city center. Another frequent service is bus 15 or 16 to the university. Avis, Budget, Hertz and National all have car-rental desks at the airport. You can park free at meters on weekends, holidays and in the evening. The city parking lot 11 Sydney St is free on weekends.

Indeed, hikers, cyclists, kayakers and all nature lovers will be enchanted by this marvelous coast, edged by dramatic cliffs and tides.

Once a somnolent wooden shipbuilding center, it now draws vacationers to the coastal recreational parkway, opened in River Valley Adventures , ; www. Yes, there are miniature horses to pet. Now you know you are on holiday. The park features an extensive network of hiking trails.

Surprisingly, at last report there were no bicycle rentals in Fundy National Park or in nearby Alma. Contact the visitors centers to find current information on this. Several trails require hikers to ford rivers, so be prepared. The most popular backpacking route is the Fundy Circuit, a three-day trek of 48km through the heart of the park.

Another overnight trek is the Goose River Trail. It joins the Fundy Trail, accessible by road from St Martins. This undeveloped three-day trek is one of the most difficult in the province.

While you can cycle to Goose River, the trail beyond can only be done on foot. Book well in advance. SKIING In the winter, 25km of park trails are groomed for fantastic cross-country skiing, with additional snowshoeing tracks through the forest. Sleeping The park has five campgrounds and 13 wilderness sites. The park entry fee is extra and is paid upon arrival. However, it has the advantages of a covered cooking area and few other campers.

It has accommodations, restaurants, a small gas station, grocery store, liquor outlet and laundromat. Most facilities close in winter, when it becomes a ghost town. Down on the beach is a statue of Molly Kool, the first female sea captain on the continent.

The 11km-long parkway to Big Salmon River put an end to the unspoiled wilderness part. There is now a lovely stretch of pavement with numerous viewpoints, picnic areas and parking lots. Eventually, it will extend to Fundy National Park. Nova Scotia is visible across the bay. On Saturday, Sunday and holidays a free hourly shuttle bus operates from noon to 6pm ferrying hikers up and down the trail between the parkway entrance and Big Salmon River.

In the off-season, the main gate is closed, but you can park at the entrance and hike or pedal in. A suspension bridge leads to a vast wilderness hiking area beyond the end of the road. At last report, no permits or permissions were required to do so.

But beyond Big Salmon River, be prepared for wilderness, rocky scree and even a rope ladder or two. Some beach sections are usable only at low tide and the cliffs are unsafe to climb.

Call Alonzo Leger for more information. A more prosaic explanation is in the length, depth and gradual funnel shape of the bay itself. The highest tide ever recorded anywhere was All tides are caused by the rise and fall of the oceans due to the gravitational pull of the sun and the moon.

When the moon is full or new, the gravitational forces of the sun and moon are working in concert, and the tides at these two times of the month are higher than average.

Local schedules are available at tourist offices. The casual take-out patio has fish and chips and cold beer. See the lighthouse at the windblown, suitably named Cape Enrage , ; www. The site was restored and is still expertly run by local high school students and volunteer mentors from the area. From mid-July to mid-August literally hundreds of thousands of shorebirds, primarily sandpipers, gather here.

Nature trails and boardwalks lead through the dikes and marsh. The interpretive center is open from late June to early September, but you can use the 6. With a crowded parking lot the size of Fredericton, you have to fight to feel the nature.

However, an exploratory walk along the beach at low tide is still worthwhile. Check the tide tables beforehand at any tourist office. Southeast, toward Nova Scotia, are significant historical and bird life attractions. A few square blocks along Main St in the city center have been prettied up with redbricked sidewalks and planters full of flowers.

Apart from that, there is little to detain the visitor. In the s the first Acadians settled, to be followed in by Protestant German immigrants from Pennsylvania. Later, it became a rail center and during WWII the city served as a transportation hub and training facility for pilots from many Allied countries. Moncton is now the fastest growing city in the Maritimes with an economy built on transportation and call centers drawn to set up here by the bilingual workforce.

Adjacent to Jean Coutu Pharmacy. Visitors Information Centre , ; www. You figure it out. Family-oriented attractions include a zoo and water park. Tidal Bore Park east end of Main St; admission free; 24hr The tourist literature talks up the twice-daily return of the waters of the tidal Petitcodiac River. In theory, the tide comes in as one solid wave, unfurled like a carpet across the muddy riverbed in one dramatic gesture. The height of this oncoming rush can allegedly vary from just a few centimeters to about 1m.

The spoiler is the causeway that was built across the Petitcodiac in the s, which the government pledged, in , to remove. Nibble sweet pastries such as plogues and guaffres while browsing the craft stalls. Look for the yellow roof. Tours Roads to Sea ; www. Sleeping Reservations are a good idea as the city is a major conference destination and often gets packed solid.

The five-bunk dorm rooms and private singles and doubles with shared bathroom are nothing fancy, but they are clean and comfortable. There is a kitchen for guest use and lots of space for lounging on the verandahs.

There is a cozy fireplace in the living room and morning coffee is served on the verandah. Auberge au Bois Dormant , ; www. Some rooms have private balconies. This gay-friendly establishment is on a quiet, tree-lined residential street and puts on a three-course breakfast spread.

Alternatively, feast on the wild mushroom and basil pizza with a leafy salad. Of the brews made on the premises, the Muddy River stout is tasty, or try the beer sample tray. Thoughtfully included are wine suggestions to accompany each dish. The decor is a smart and snappy mix of tomato orange, dark chocolate brown wood and fresh creamy linens. Settle in for live after dinner music on summer weekends. Enjoy the freedom to order anything off the Mexican, Indian, Middle eastern-influenced menu.

The natural wood, warm earth colors and burbling fountain create a soothing atmosphere. A polished tone is set by the dark wood paneling and intimately lit dining alcoves set with white linen and china. Chef Stefan Mueller collects accolades for his fine cuisine created with local ingredients. Start with the brandy-kissed lobster bisque with citrus cream and move onto a chateaubriand of bison or beef with Bouctouche cheese and blueberry port cordial or a filet of Atlantic salmon glazed with ginger-infused molasses.

Central Main St and side streets have several bars with a young crowd, live bands and dancing. You can also sip a glass of wine during the interval at the grand Capitol Theatre ; Main St , a vaudeville house that has been restored to its original glory. It is the venue for concerts and live theater throughout the year. For flight info Click here. Getting Around The airport is served by bus 20 Champlain from Champlain Place nine times on weekdays. Codiac Transit is the local bus system running daily, except Sunday.

The Sackville Waterfowl Park, across the road from the university off East Main St, is on a major bird migration route. Boardwalks with interpretive signs rise over portions of it. Enthusiasts should also see the Tantramar Wetlands Centre ; www. Later it was used as a stronghold during the American Revolution and the War of Only earthworks and stone foundations remain, but the view is excellent, vividly illustrating why these crossroads of the Maritimes were fortified by two empires.

A good part of the population along this coast is French-speaking, and Bouctouche is an Acadian stronghold. Further north, Kouchibouguac National Park protects a large swath of scenic coastal ecosystems. Seventeen kilometers of trails wind through salt marshes, dunes, woods and beach. A four-story lookout provides views of the surroundings and Confederation Bridge.

You can even enjoy it on pizza! The many white lights sprinkled around town all summer lend a festive air. It seems on any hot weekend that half the province is flaked out on the sand at Parlee Beach, turning the color of cooked lobster. Terrific Aboiteau Beach is over 5km of unsupervised sand, while others have all amenities and lifeguards.

Shediac Bay Cruises , ; Pointe-du-Chene wharf has a unique concept. Shediac is ringed with shanty-town-like RV campgrounds whose only appeal is their proximity to Parlee Beach.

Sitting on a small island in the Bouctouche River, it consists of a reconstructed historical fishing village. It hosts live music and theatrical shows focused on Acadian history and culture.

Irving Eco Centre ; www. The interpretive center has displays on the flora and fauna, but the highlight is the boardwalk that snakes above the sea grass along the dunes for 2km. The peninsula itself is 12km long, taking four to six hours to hike over the loose sand and back. There are several naturalist-led tours daily. The screened-in porch offers a lovely view of the bay. The sands invite strolling, bird-watching and clam-digging.

The park also encompasses acres of forest and salt marshes, crisscrossed or skirted by biking paths, hiking trails and groomed cross-country ski tracks. For more information try the visitors centre ; www. The calm, shallow water between the shore and the dunes, which run for 25km north and south, makes for a serene morning paddle. The excellent Bog Trail 1. The Cedars Trail 1. The Osprey Trail 5. When you reach the beach, turn right and hike 6km to the end of the dune.

Take drinking water. The camping season is from mid-May to mid-October and the park is very busy throughout July and August, especially on weekends. Camping reservations ; www. The park entry fee is extra. There is water and vault toilets, but no showers. Some sites are on the shore, others nestled among the trees, with a dozen walk-in sites meters, wheel barrows provided for luggage for those who want a car-free environment. The Osprey hiking trail starts from here.

The three primitive campgrounds have only vault toilets. Sipu and Petit-Large have water pumps. Note that Pointe-a-Maxime is the most difficult to get to access by water only , but this does not translate into remote seclusion. There is a constant stream of passing motorized boat traffic from the fishing wharf nearby. There are a couple of snack bars and a restaurant in the park, but you should stock up on groceries in nearby St-Louis de Kent.

The distance from the park gate to the campgrounds and beaches is at least 10km. The nearest bus stop is in Rexton, 16km south of the park, where Acadian Bus Lines stops at the Irving convenience store ; Main St.

If you can pull yourself away from the vistas, dip into gourmet comfort dishes like bison strip loin and prosciutto-wrapped salmon.

Reservations recommended, especially if you want to sit on the patio with the likes of Halle Berry and Robin Williams. Mimicking the diet of its namesake, nothing is cooked, leading to innovative treats like crunchy lasagna strips of zucchini substitute for pasta and pizza made from a dehydrated-seed crust and topped with tomato sauce, tenderized zucchini and mashed avocado.

Save room for an icy almond shake dessert. With lots of vegetarian options, try the feastlike Plato Mixteco if you want to share. Pull up a bar stool at the long table and choose from the blackboard of cured meats and local cheeses, accompanied by a glass or two of great wine. Restoring the social aspect to dining, the warm room is usually noisy with chat by the end of the night.

Dishes range from satisfying dim sum to steaming wonton soup bowls, bobbing with juicy dumplings. Try the congee rice porridge: a fancy-free soul food dish that takes three hours to prepare and comes in seafood, chicken and beef varieties. Wild boar with jasmine rice and plantain chips is particularly recommended, as is the comprehensive martini list. This is a popular late-night hangout on Fridays and Saturdays. Combining a rustic Latin American ambiance with a roster of satisfying Afro-Cuban-Southern soul-food dishes, highlights range from yam fries to slow-roasted lamb curry and a shellfish platter of clams, mussels and oysters.

Favored by in-the-know locals, hence the frequent line-ups, all dishes are made to order and include house-chopped coleslaw. Both rooms have an intimate, wood-lined feel with their shared waterfront patio becoming a chatty al fresco hangout on most summer evenings.

The oysters, best enjoyed on the rooftop deck, are recommended and the strong wine list is something to write home about. Live music is served up Thursday to Saturday when the urban professionals drop by and loosen their ties. But the menu and weekend brunch queues show that these guys mean business, encouraging legions of repeat diners who keep coming back for stuffed quesadillas, hearty Farmers Breakfasts and sesame-fried potatoes with miso gravy.

Consider coming back later in the day for a slice of mountain-sized apple pie. If not, console yourself with some Okanagan cherry tart. The maplewood sushi bar seats here are more sought-after than a couple of front-row Stanley Cup tickets, so reserve as early as possible and make sure you sample a selection or two from the sake menu.

The great and good come to sip alongside live soul music on Monday and Tuesday, while Thursday to Saturday combines house and Top 40 tunes on the dance floor. Serves gourmet pub grub like smoky-bacon-and-gorgonzola burgers alongside exotic European brews like Belgian cherry beer. Honey Map; ; Abbott St; noon-late A refreshing alternative to the Granville St party rabble, this resto-lounge venue transforms into a club on weekends and is especially renowned for its Friday-night Mod Club, when a welcoming and pretense-free crowd of young coolsters dresses up for a night of pop-soul-and-everything-else partying.

Good drinks specials, too. A comfort food menu perfectly matches the drinks selection of fortifying martinis. Work your way down the list, sink further into your comfy chair and try to figure out what the giant swirly glass thing above the bar is supposed to be. Both bars were planning a possible move across the street on our visit. Seventy Two Sports Bar Map; ; Robson St; ampm Right in the heart of Robson St, you can pull up a patio chair on the 2nd floor here and still hear the chatty shoppers shuffling past below.

The signature beer here is Lions Gate Lager, a good summer tipple. The menu is packed with pub standards, but the pizzas are a stand-out. Tickets for many events are available from Ticketmaster performing arts , concerts , sports ; www. At the time, pilots considered it the best-lit city in North America. Complete with a bouncy dance floor, it showcases great visiting bands and the best in local talent. Across the street, the Plaza Club Map; www.

The venue hosts a varied array of rising and smaller visiting talent. Blues fans should head along Granville to the Yale Map; ; www. Popular world classics and works by contemporary Canadian playwrights are also part of the mix offered by the Arts Club Theatre Company ; www.

Those looking for more challenging fare might prefer the Firehall Arts Centre Map; ; www. For multiplex movie fans, the Scotiabank Theatre Map; ; www. Mixing its own blockbuster offerings with festival flicks, Tinseltown Cinemas Map; ; www. The innovative Scotiabank Dance Centre Map; ; www.

Ballet BC ; www. Sports The Vancouver Canucks ; www. Book your seat at their GM Place Map; ; www. They play at the Pacific Coliseum, east of downtown. And if you want to see the Vancouver Whitecaps ; www. Markets Chinatown Night Market Map; ; www. These sites include BC Place, which will host the opening and closing ceremonies as well as nightly medal presentations; Pacific Coliseum in Hastings Park, which will host figure skating, short-track and speed-skating; the UBC Winter Sports Centre, which will host hockey and Paralympic sledge hockey; Hillcrest Curling Centre, which will host curling and wheelchair curling; GM Place, which will host ice hockey; Cypress Mountain, which will host freestyle skiing and snowboard; and the Richmond Speed Skating Oval, which will be the home of long-track speed-skating.

Other events will take place in and around Whistler. Highlights can include crunchy apples, lush peaches and juicy blueberries; home-baked cakes and treats are frequent accompaniments. Vancouver Flea Market Map; ; www. Its barnlike venue near the Main St SkyTrain station houses dozens of semiprofessional and amateur hawkers, giving it the feel of a sprawling indoor garage sale.

Dream Designs Map; ; Commercial Dr; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, am-5pm Sun Visiting greenies will enjoy dipping into this small organic home store that sells everything from yoga knick knacks to linen pajamas and hemp bed-sheets. Check out the local pottery selection and enjoy a calming chat with the staff about your favorite natural spa treatments. Check out the narrow aisles of international condiments, then start building your ideal picnic from the impressive bread, cheese and cold-cuts selection.

Next stop: years of addiction therapy. Intra-Canada flights include regular Westjet ; www. Linked to the main airport by shuttle bus, the South Terminal receives BC-only flights from smaller airlines and floatplane operators. These include frequent Harbour Air Seaplanes , ; www.

Boat BC Ferries , ; www. Services also arrive here from the Southern Gulf Islands. Greyhound Canada ; www. Perimeter Tours , ; www. Quick Coach Lines , ; www. If you want to go downtown, turn left onto Hastings and follow it into the city center, or continue on along the North Shore toward Whistler.

All the recognized car rental chains Click here have Vancouver branches. VIA Rail ; www. Amtrak ; www. Note that only the first service of the day from Seattle is by train, with buses used for the remaining four services. Alternatively, the Vancouver Airporter , ; www. Bicycle With routes running across town, Vancouver is a relatively good cycling city. Cyclists can take their bikes for free on SkyTrains, SeaBuses and rack-fitted transit buses.

Bike rentals: Reckless Bike Stores Map; ; www. Spokes Bicycle Rental Map; ; www. Its cutthroat rival is False Creek Ferries Map; ; www. Try the alternative Second Narrows Bridge. Parking is at a premium downtown: there are few free spots available on residential side streets and traffic wardens are predictably predatory. Underground parking at either Pacific Centre shopping mall or the Central Library will have you in the heart of the city. Public Transportation The website for TransLink ; www.

A ticket bought on any of the three services is valid for 90 minutes of travel on the entire network, depending on the zone you intend to travel in. The three zones become progressively more expensive the further you journey.

Many buses have bike racks and are wheelchair accessible. Exact change or more is required since all buses use fare machines and change is not given. These buses have their own limited arrival and departure points and do not use regular bus stops. There is also a route night bus system that runs every 30 minutes between am and 4am across the Lower Mainland. The last bus leaves downtown Vancouver at am. Look for the night-bus signs at designated stops. The original minute Expo Line takes passengers to and from downtown Vancouver and Surrey, via stops throughout Burnaby and New Westminster.

The newer Millennium Line alights near shopping malls and suburban residential districts in Coquitlam and Burnaby. Trains depart every two to eight minutes between 5am and am Monday to Friday 6am to am Saturday, 7am to pm Sun. All SkyTrain services are wheelchair accessible. Services depart from Waterfront Station between am and am Monday to Saturday am to pm Sunday.

Vessels are wheelchair accessible and bike-friendly. For green travelers, Yellow Cab has a large fleet of low-emission vehicles. A drive or transit trek over the soaring Lions Gate Bridge will deliver you to the forest-fringed doorstep of North Vancouver and West Vancouver, complete with their outdoors attractions and waterfront views, while a short-hop ferry from Horseshoe Bay takes you over to Bowen Island for a rustic day excursion.

For information on what to do here, check out the municipal website www. The grounds also include rainforest walks, totem poles and a swinging network of smaller cable bridges strung between the trees.

In summer, Skyride gondola passengers can access mountain restaurants, lumberjack shows, alpine hiking trails and a grizzly-bear refuge. You can also harden your calf muscles on the Grouse Grind, a steep 2. There are also plenty of excellent hiking trails and some great picnic spots. Like Grouse, the area transforms in winter, when Mt Seymour Resorts ; www. It has a playground, outdoor pool and free continental breakfast. Lonsdale Quay Hotel Map; ; www. Interiors will be familiar to the business-traveler crowd but there are also two colorful family rooms with bunk beds and bath toys.

There are plenty of shops and restaurants nearby to keep you occupied. Quality pub food in a ski-lodge setting. From the bus terminal at the quay, bus runs to Capilano Suspension Bridge then up to the base of Grouse Mountain. Rocky Mountaineer Vacations runs its popular Whistler Mountaineer , ; www. You can check out all the local information and parochial intrigue at the city council www. About 13km of hiking trails crisscross the area, including a recommended trek that leads to Point Atkinson Lighthouse and some shimmering views across lovely Burrard Inlet.

Each suite has a fridge and DVD player, as well as a decanter of sherry for that essential al fresco evening tipple. You can sober up with a stroll to nearby Point Atkinson Lighthouse. Proving just how authentic the food is, there are usually a few expat Iranians here, tucking into large platters of Barbary bread with eggplant dip and long-simmered stews. The recommended fish, chicken and beef kabobs dominate the menu.

You can also catch a minute ferry ride to Bowen Island from here. For Horseshoe Bay information, check www. Bowen Island has its own Visitor Centre ; www. West of Horseshoe Bay, Whytecliff Park off Map; ; block Marine Dr attracts scuba divers to its protected waters, hikers to its rocky trails and rock climbers to its granite cliffs. Hiking trails and picnic grounds similarly abound on Bowen.

Scenic kayaking tours are offered by Bowen Island Sea Kayaking , ; www. Carrying 22 million passengers a year, the BC Ferries system has a few unusual stories to tell.

There have been 21 on-board births, several weddings and a missing dog that disappeared from a boat in , only to arrive bedraggled on Bowen Island two days later, following an exhausting doggy paddle. Pub grub is the main focus here and the fish and chips are recommended. BC Ferries , ; www. In addition, a handful of attractions aim to keep you away from the shops. For information, contact Tourism Burnaby ; www.

Offering a peaceful environment minus the hectic energy of downtown, the pathways of Deer Lake Park Map crisscross the meadows and woodlands, circling the lake where fowl and other wildlife hang out. The adjoining Burnaby Village Museum Map; ; www. To get there, take the Sperling Ave exit off Hwy 1 and follow the museum signs.

An ever-expanding homage to materialism, Metropolis at Metrotown Map; ; www. The mall is a minute SkyTrain ride from downtown Vancouver. For information, drop into the Visitor Centre Map; , ; www.

At the time of writing, the market was considering a new location: check its website for location updates before you set off. Kuan Yin Temple Map; ; www. Rooms are tastefully lined with reproduction antiques and landscape paintings. The best feature is the chintzy guest lounge, which opens directly onto a large, secluded swimming pool.

Fairmont Vancouver Airport Map; , ; www. A great option for boarding your long-haul flight in trance-like state of calm. The rooms are elegantly furnished with high-end flourishes including remote-controlled drapes and marble-lined bathrooms. The giant, naturally occurring Buntzen Lake off Map; reservoir is surrounded on three sides by steep, tree-covered mountains and on its fourth side by a gently curving beach, complete with picnic tables, old-growth trees and those ambling, ever-present Canada geese.

Take the Ioco exit and follow Ioco Rd to the left. Turn right on First Ave and continue to Sunnyside Rd. Turn right again and continue to the Buntzen Lake entrance. The journey should take around an hour. It can get crowded here in summer, so arrive early if you want your pick of the picnic tables. Vegetarians are also well served on a menu that stretches to almost 50 dishes.

Drive here from Vancouver via the Steveston Hwy exit off Hwy 99 for an early-evening stroll along the boardwalk. Most of the machinery is still in place and you can learn all about what a horrible job it was working the production line here. Fort Langley is 45 minutes southeast of Vancouver via Hwy 1. Head to the slick new visitor center, named the Squamish Adventure Centre , ; www. The underground train tour May to October only into the mines is a highlight, especially for kids who like a fright.

West Coast Railway Heritage Park ; www. This volunteer-driven outdoor museum has around 90 railcars, including 10 working engines. A few minutes past Squamish, riverside Brackendale village is a fancy-free spot with a major claim to fame. The winter feeding ground for thousands of salmon-scoffing bald eagles, it draws legions of binocular-clad visitors, who flock around Thor Froslev, the eccentric owner of Brackendale Art Gallery ; www.

Activities Home of a sheer, m granite rock face that attracts climbers from across the region, Stawamus Chief Provincial Park www. Call Squamish Rock Guides ; www. Known for its high wind quotient, Squamish Spit is a popular kiteboarding and windsurfing destination. There are two shower buildings with flush toilets, and campers often indulge in activities like swimming, hiking and biking rentals available. Consider an interpretive ranger tour through the woods July and August only to find out a little more about the region.

Squamish Inn on the Water , ; www. These are among the best producers and their recommended beers : Dead Frog Brewery www. Granville Island Brewing www. Phillips Brewing www. Russell Brewing www. Storm Brewing www. Vancouver Island Brewery www. The slightly more salubrious Perimeter Squamish Shuttle , ; www. Summer hikers seem magnetic- ally drawn here but the trails also double as cross-country ski routes in winter.

The trailhead is 8. The Elfin Lakes trail 11km is a lovely and relatively easy day trek. For overnighters, the trail continues on to the extinct volcano of Opal Cone. The trailhead parking lot is 16km east of Hwy The bright aqua hue of the undisturbed lake contrasts with the dark, jagged peak of Black Tusk rising behind it. A short stroll through the forest leads to a leg-jellying platform overlooking the top of the falls, where water drops suddenly out of the trees like a giant faucet.

A 7km looped trail leads further through the dense forest and ancient lava beds to Cal-Cheak Suspension Bridge. If you fancy staying, there are 15 drive-in campsites ; www. Co-hosting the Winter Olympics www. Once little more than an off-season afterthought, the area has seen summer visitor numbers leaping in recent years, with many people dropping by to try mountain biking, alpine hiking and a full roster of adventurous outdoor activities. Luckily, there are plenty of street signs and lots of people around to snag directions from.

Pick up The Pique or Whistler Question newspapers for further local insights. Armchair Books ; Village Sq; 9am-9pm Central bookstore with strong travel section. Whistler Activity Centre , ; Whistler Way; 9am-5pm Recommendations and bookings for local activities. Whistler Visitor Centre , ; www. Whistler was originally called Alta Lake and Whistler Mountain was named London Mountain in the s by some evidently homesick British naval officers.

Whatever season you arrive, head to the visitor center or Whistler Activity Centre for tips and recommendations. There are dozens of lifts to transport skiers and snowboarders and a hotly anticipated 4. Snowshoers are also well served at Lost Lake: you can stomp off on your own on 10km of trails or rent equipment and guides. Outdoor Adventures Whistler ; www. Prices include equipment rentals and the company also offers a wide range of non-snowshoe tours and activities.

The cool, line course operated by Ziptrek Ecotours , ; www. Hiking With more than 40km of flower-and-forest alpine trails, most accessed via the Whistler Village Gondola, this region is ideal for those who like nature of the strollable variety. Favorite routes include the High Note Trail 8km , which traverses pristine meadows and has stunning views of the blue-green waters of Cheakumus Lake. Pick up a route map from the visitor center for other trails. Whistler Alpine Guides Bureau ; www.

Rafting Tumbling waterfalls, dense forest and a menagerie of local wildlife are some of the visuals you might catch as you lurch along the Elaho or Squamish rivers on an adrenalin-rushing half- or full-day rafting trip. Whistler River Adventures , ; www. Kokanee Crankworx www. Cornucopia www. Whistler Film Festival www. The visitor center has a handy accommodation reservation service , ; www. Budget HI-Whistler Hostel ; whistler hihostels.

Dorms are predictably institutional, but private rooms are also available. Book ahead year-round. The on-site restaurant serves great breakfasts have the salmon eggs Benedict.

Fireside Lodge ; www. Midrange Blackcomb Lodge , ; www. It offers lofts and studios with full kitchens, and a selection of cheaper but very comfortable standard rooms. Alpine Lodge ; www. Crystal Lodge , ; www. Both share excellent proximity to village restaurants and are less than m from the main ski lift. Or you can just hop in the hot tub and dream about the large buffet breakfast coming your way in the morning. Edgewater Lodge , ; www.

Pinnacle Hotel , ; www. Top end Adara Hotel , ; www. The front desk loans iPods. The region hits the international spotlight when it joins Vancouver to host the Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games in February and March Go to www. Choose a room overlooking the slopes and you can watch from your balcony as the skiers slide home. Fairmont Chateau Whistler , ; www. The hallways, lobbies and rooms are adorned in rich hues and tastefully furnished with classic west coast elegance.

Also recommended: Sundial Boutique Hotel , ; www. Suites have full kitchens, heated bathroom floors and rooftop hot-tub access. Legends , ; www. Fight your way to the counter and buy as many cookies and muffins as you can eat: smiling while stuffing your face has never been easier.

Try a glass of hot sake on a cold winter day. The loungey, sometimes raucous, bar will keep you occupied here until past midnight when you can stagger back to wherever your hotel might be. Save room for dessert: the cheese menu is small but perfectly formed and the Okanagan apple cheesecake will have you licking the glaze off your plate. You can treat your hangover to a late breakfast the next day by coming in for a good-value fry-up.

From its wrought-iron chandeliers to its stone hearth and giant picture windows, you can tell anyone who will listen here all about your daring escapades on the slopes. They might even believe you. The food, including pasta, pizza and great fish and chips, is superior to standard bar fare.

Thursday is the best night of the week, attracting locals with indie and funk tunes, but be prepared to line up for weekend entry when everyone within a 25km radius seems to be trying to get in.

MY Place ; www. Motor coach services from Perimeter Tours , ; www. Snowbus , ; www. Alternatively, you can grab a taxi from Resort Cabs ; www. Check the website of the Sunshine Coast Tourism Partnership www. The Sunshine Coast Transit System ; www. Malaspina Coach Lines ; ; www. This service is also handy for traveling up and down the highway between the Sunshine Coast communities. West of town, Roberts Creek Provincial Park ; www. Exactly what a great hostel should be, Up the Creek Backpackers , ; www.

Its large upstairs suite, complete with kitchenette, is popular with families but the lovely Renaissance Room is perfect for some romantic canoodling. Return to beginning of chapter SECHELT pop A useful base for active travelers, with plenty of hiking, biking, kayaking and diving opportunities in the area, Sechelt is the second-largest town on the Sunshine Coast. For information, drop by the Visitor Centre , ; www.

About as far from camping as you can get, each luxurious canvas-walled cabin has a heated rock floor, Jacuzzi tub and a private deck overlooking the bay. Your first stop should be Pemberton Museum ; Prospect St; admission by donation; 10am-5pm Jun-Sep where you can wander around a village of rescued pioneer shacks and imagine the Gold Rush sweeping through.

Next, don your Stetson and saddle up with Adventures on Horseback ; www. An even better way to see the area is from the air. Head to the Pemberton Soaring Centre , ; www. Tell the pilot you like rollercoasters and see what happens next. Finally, roll back to your cozy bed at the Whistler-style Pemberton Valley Lodge , ; www.

Hop aboard a steel-hulled water taxi operated by High Tide Tours ; www. West of downtown, Willingdon Beach City Park is an ideal spot for a waterfront picnic. Or you can hit the water with a kayak from Powell River Sea Kayak , ; www.

For a quirky sleepover, the Old Courthouse Inn , ; www. In keeping with the historic theme, the rooms are nicely decorated with antique furnishings. Nearby, the old Rodmay Heritage Hotel ; www. For an introduction to the island, contact Tourism Vancouver Island , ; www. This was a surprise to anyone who actually came from Britain, since Victoria promulgated a dreamy version of England that never really was: every garden complete with the occasional palm tree was immaculate; every flag pole was adorned with a Union Jack; and every afternoon was spent quaffing tea from bone-china cups.

Thankfully this tired theme-park version of Ye Olde England has been gradually superseded in recent years. Fuelled by an increasingly younger demographic, a quiet revolution has seen lame tourist pubs, eateries and stores transformed into the kind of bright-painted bohemian shops, wood-floored coffee bars and surprisingly innovative restaurants that would make any city proud.

Visitor Centre Map; ; www. Parliament Buildings Map; ; www. The BC legislature welcomes history-hugging visitors. Consider stopping for lunch Click here. This tiny strip of businesses is fronted by an incongruously large Chinatown gate. Consider a guided tour to learn all about days of opium dens and anti-Chinese sentiment.

Check the online calendar of events if you want to rub shoulders with the locals at lectures, presentations and even singles nights aimed at lonely arts fans.

The multiturreted Craigdarroch Castle Map; ; www. The elegant, wood-lined stone mansion is dripping with period architecture and antique-packed rooms. Enter the park via Douglas St. Emily Carr House Map; ; www. When you get to Victoria Bug Zoo Map; ; www. This clutch of scrubbed colonial strongholds is now home to the Maritime Museum of British Columbia Map; ; www.

Some operators: Orca Spirit Adventures Map; , ; www. Some operators: Ocean River Sports Map; , ; www. Sports Rent Map; ; www. Cycle Treks Map; , ; www. Gray Line West Map; , ; www. Hidden Dragon Tours Map; , ; www. Victoria SkaFest www. Victoria Jazzfest International www. Moss Street Paint-In In mid-July artists demonstrate their skills at this popular one-day community event. Symphony Splash www. Victoria Fringe Theatre Festival www.

Victoria Cycling Festival www. A great place to meet fellow travelers. Daily guided excursions and tours include city, bike and history treks. HI Victoria Hostel Map; , ; victoria hihostels.

Free weekly city tours are offered. Geometric bedspreads and pastel paintwork color most interiors but the courtyard suites are much larger and suitable for small groups. Ocean Island Suites Map; , ; www. James Bay Inn Map; , ; www. There are some kitchenettes but the downstairs neighborhood bar also serves good pub grub.

Add extra time for the painfully slow elevator to arrive. Queen Victoria Map; , ; www. The rooms here have abandoned the floral bedspreads in favor of a smart business hotel feel.

All have new bathrooms and fridges, some have kitchenettes and many overlook Beacon Hill Park from their little balconies. Shamrock Suites Map; , ; www. Call ahead for year-round room discounts. Rosewood Victoria Inn Map; , ; www. Bring your laptop to the library-like lounge for wireless access or hit the selection of board games. The Heritage House is a restored family home with antiques, fireplaces and private patios. The larger Garden Suites have a contemporary feel and a smattering of Asian design flourishes.

Gourmet continental breakfast is included. Swans Suite Hotel Map; , ; www. Most of the rooms are spacious loft suites where you climb upstairs to bed in a gabled nook, and each is decorated with a comfy combination of wood beams, rustic chic furniture and deep leather sofas. Oswego Hotel Map; , ; www. Cleverly, the smaller studio rooms have space-saving high-end Murphy beds. Fairmont Empress Hotel Map; , ; www. Check out the handmade candies on display near the entrance and pick up some marzipan teeth for the road.

Hulking sandwiches of the melt-in-your-mouth pulled pork variety beef brisket and smoked chicken variations are also offered dominate the simple menu and you can wash that down with a pail of homemade ice tea.

Expect lunchtime queues better to arrive early or late and consider perking up your order with a side of succulent cornbread or a fried-banana-and-peanut-butter sandwich dessert.

Signature sarnies feature roast beef or pastrami but the bulging vegetarian sandwich is also popular. Soups, wraps and sandwiches dominate the menu and there are plenty of vegetarian-friendly options. Heaping Belgian waffles are served with homemade cream cheese, and those who come for dinner can choose from a medley of international comfort foods, from calamari to pierogies.

Even meat-eaters have been known to swoon here, as they tuck into surprisingly tasty spring rolls, dim sum and potstickers. Combo meals are the best option, since they offer an array of different flavors. Carnivores will be just as happy here, though, with hearty savory dishes like shitake-tofu potstickers and an array of dense fruit smoothies.

Weekend brunch is popular and heavily patronized by hung-over students moaning quietly from the corners. The excellent beer selection includes Phillips and Lighthouse craft brews. Try the salmon-and-cream-cheese bagel melt at ReBar above.

Save room for dessert: a frightening array of giant cheesecakes. With a great wine menu, this spot invites adventurous foodies. Locally sourced produce is de rigueur, so the menu constantly changes to reflect seasonal highlights like figs, salmonberries and heirloom tomatoes.

We recommend the lamb shank, served with mustard-creamed root vegetables and braised chard. Unassuming from the outside, the ever-changing dishes might range from a hearty squash soup with butter-fried sage to a mouth-melting sablefish, served with rapini and poached eggs.

Savvy diners drop by on Saturdays, when a creative five-course tasting menu hits the blackboard. Extensive first-hand research was undertaken for these reviews. Summer drinkers often enjoy the lighter Honey Blonde Ale, while those with darker palates should make for the Nut Brown.

Save room for dinner: the menu of seasonal, locally-sourced dishes is superior to most pubs and includes some excellent seafood. Irish Times Map; ; Government St; 11am-1am Colonizing a former downtown bank building, this lively Celtic bar is a cut above standard Irish pubs. The interior is a pleasing fusion of high ceilings and dark wood finishes and the draft selection is a buffet of classics from Ireland, France and Belgium.

Friday is also popular and there are also regular live acts. The Friday and Saturday night dance parties here are the main attraction. The latter is also home of the Victoria Symphony ; www.

Shopping While Government St is a magnet for souvenir shoppers, those looking for more worthwhile purchases should head to the Johnson St stretch between Store and Government. Tops and skirts with insect prints are hot items, but there are also lots of cute handbags, socks and brooches to tempt your credit card.

You can pick up all manner of tea paraphernalia here or sidle up to the tasting bar to quaff some adventurous brews. A minitheatre walks you through the process, a tasting bar serves those who like to quaff before buying and an impressive selection of vintages is offered for sale. Flavors range from peppermint to chocolate nut. Government St Public Market ; Government St; Sun May-Sep An eclectic mix of vendors and performers transform this stretch at the block of Government St into a bustling pedestrianized street market on summer Sundays.

Air Canada Jazz , ; www. Both airlines offer connections across Canada. Harbour Air Seaplanes , ; www.

Similar West Coast Air , ; www. Regular services also arrive from the Southern Gulf Islands. Victoria Clipper , ; www. Black Ball Transport ; www. Pick up a copy of the Peninsula Times for local stories and happenings or drop by the Saanich Peninsula Visitor Centre ; Patricia Bay Hwy; ampm Jun-Sep near Sidney for tips and insights on the area. Drop by the Visitor Centre ; www. The Marine Ecology Centre ; www.

A floating barge in the marina on our visit, it was scheduled to move to swanky new premises in the Sidney Pier Hotel. You can check out the sea critters for yourself at Sidney Spit. Accessed via a short ferry ride ; www. Dominating the waterfront, the new Sidney Pier Hotel and Spa , ; www.

Victoria Regional Transit ; www. More than a century later, the cement operation is dust but the huge, elaborately manicured Butchart Gardens , ; www. Summer is crowded with the usual tour bus hordes but daily afternoon and evening music performances and Saturday-night fireworks July and August make it all worthwhile.

Yuletide-loving December visitors are treated to thousands of fairy lights draped among the wintering plants. Perched atop Observatory Hill, this government facility houses the Plaskett Telescope in use since along with several hands-on exhibits and a miniplanetarium for the astronomically inclined.

Starry-eyed visitors can crash the Star Party on Friday or Saturday evenings May to October , when the astronomers chill out, show off their equipment and tackle thorny themes from asteroids to zero gravity. Hungry bald eagles are attracted to the fish and birdwatchers come ready with their cameras.

Drop by the Sooke Region Visitor Centre , ; www. This route goes a step further by getting cyclists off the highways and into some usually unseen backcountry. Getting on and off the trails is easy since bus lines along both routes are bike-rack equipped.

You can download free maps and guides for both these routes from the Capital Regional District ; www. With surf crashing against the bluffs and a dense canopy of Douglas fir trees, it offers short strolls to the beach as well as a tough 10km coastal trail. Sooke is also the end of the line for the popular Galloping Goose cycling trail see boxed text. Rent a bike from Sooke Cycle ; www. Paintings, sculptures and carved wood line its interiors.

Be aware that some sections are often muddy and difficult to hike and bear sightings are not uncommon. The most popular is the family-friendly China Beach Campground , ; www. Booking is also required on the West Coast Trail Express , ; www. An ideal place to wind down after a long hike, its facilities include barbecues and hot tubs. Hikers are often found lolling around outside on the picnic tables here. Contact Tourism Cowichan , ; www.

Visit the Visitor Centre , ; www. Must-scoffs here include giant vegetable pakoras and the kind of cinnamon-infused rice that addictions are made of. The nearby South Shore Motel , ; www.

After fuelling up, duck into the Maritime Centre ; www. Continue to the Caycus River Bridge and, just south of the bridge, turn right and follow Rosander Main for 29km to the park. Instead of submitting to a slow death, town officials commissioned a giant wall mural depicting local history.

People took notice, 34 more murals and 13 sculptures were ordered, and a new tourism industry was born. Check the Visitor Centre ; www. Favorite stops include Cherry Point Vineyards ; www. For more information on the wineries of this area and across Vancouver Island, check www.

In the evening, the surprisingly large Chemainus Theatre , ; www. Rooms are slick and comfortable and many include kitchens. Its old Edwardian banks and trading houses are now occupied by artsy shops and coffee bars. Drop by the Visitor Centre , ; www. Downhill from the town hub, Transfer Beach Park attracts swimmers and picnickers and has summertime live music in its large amphitheater. You can also hit the water here with the help of Sealegs Kayaking Adventures , ; www.

With its own ferry service from the mainland, the city is a handy hub for exploring up-island. Nicol St leads south to Hwy 1 and the Duke Point ferry terminal.

Heading north, Terminal Ave forks: the right fork becomes Stewart Ave Hwy 1 , leading to the Departure Bay ferry terminal, while the left fork becomes Hwy 19A Island Hwy and is the main up-island route. Downtown Information Centre ; www. Bring a picnic and check out the birds hanging around the lagoon, take a short hike through the gnarly Garry oak forest or give the climbing wall your best shot.

Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park ; www. Walks or hikes range from 1km strolls to a 7. Access is via a minute ferry , ; www. Overlooking downtown, the colorful Nanaimo District Museum ; www. There are regular temporary exhibitions to keep the line-up fresh. A swanky new museum building in the city center was scheduled to open soon after our visit.

This landmark fortified tower only fired occasional cannons to simmer down regional ruckuses. Wild Play Element Parks , ; www. For scuba fans, the coastline off Nanaimo offers some great dives and the folk at Ocean Explorers Diving , ; www. Sleeping Painted Turtle Guesthouse , ; www. Hardwood floors and IKEAesque furnishings abound while facilities range from a large and welcoming kitchen to a laundry room and en-suite showers.

You can book a wide range of local activities through the front desk. Buccaneer Inn , ; www. The neat and tidy approach is carried over into the maritime-themed rooms, many with kitchenettes. It has two lovely rooms, combining antique and contemporary chintzy flourishes. Dorchester Hotel , ; www. Inn on Long Lake , ; www. The large rooms, each with a balcony, have plenty of amenities and some have kitchenettes.

It has a sauna, a fitness center and lake-bound canoes to keep you occupied, along with free continental breakfast. The food is the main attraction, though. Drop by on Saturday and Sunday for live lunchtime music. The patio is a magnet on languid sunny days. The menu rests on the kind of wraps, burgers and sandwiches that are a cut above standard diner fare and there are some tempting small-plate options for those who want to snack or share.

The locally sourced ingredients mean ever-changing specials but the favorite on our visit was Pacific halibut with Dungeness crab potato salad. In late July, the four days of marine-themed shenanigans include a street fair, a parade and a giant fireworks extravaganza, but the main event remains the big race where hundreds of salty sea dogs jump into customized bath-sized crafts and embark on a grueling 58km course.

Speedboat engines are de rigueur for the minute sprint, with thousands of spectators lining the bay for the spectacular finish. A dip in the tub will never seem the same again.

The menu is also recommended and is a cut above standard pub grub. In contrast, the Port Theatre ; www. Frequent West Coast Air , ; www. BUS Greyhound Canada ; www. Getting Around Downtown Nanaimo around the harbor is highly walkable, but after that the city spreads out and a car or strong bike legs are required. Be aware that taxis are expensive here. Nanaimo Regional Transit ; www. Bus 2 goes to the Departure Bay ferry terminal. No city buses run to Duke Point. For cabs, call AC Taxi Most visitors spend time pointing at the sky here in summer: a herd of goats lives on the roof of the main building.

World Parrot Refuge ; www. This excellent educational facility preaches the mantra that parrots are not pets. Pick up your earplugs at reception and stroll among the enclosures, each alive with recovering and very noisy birds. It has an excellent walk-through display on west coast animals and their habitats. Dedicated to treating sick or injured animals brought to its doors, the facility also has active rehabilitation programs for eagles and black bear.

Horne Lake Caves Provincial Park ; www. Even better are the three circular yurts, complete with baths, kitchens, double beds and flat-screen TVs. The rest of the campground has showers, laundry and a playground.

Free Spirit Spheres ; www. Like sleeping in a small boat cabin, the cozy, wood-lined interiors include cupboards, water coolers and the larger of the two Eryn has a microwave oven.

Blue Willow Guest House ; www. The two rooms and one self-contained suite are lined with antiques and each is extremely homely. Tigh-Na-Mara Resort , ; www. Lodge rooms, cottages and condos are available, each with a rustic-chic ambiance. Drop by for some fortifying pub grub and a couple of beers or head into the slightly more upscale restaurant where fish, steak and pasta dishes jostle for menu attention. A hearty weekend brunch is also available.

The same buses, with similar times and rates, serve Qualicum Beach. The daily VIA Rail ; www. The same train, with similar times and rates, also serves Qualicum Beach. But the double whammy of aboriginal and pioneer heritage plus easy access to some truly outstanding natural wilderness makes this an ideal spot for an off-the-beaten-path visit. For more information, check in with the Alberni Valley Visitor Centre ; www.

Try hugging that. A one-stop shop for active types, Batstar Adventure Tours , ; www. Choo Kwa Ventures , ; www. You can help paddle if you want or just sit back and listen to the ancient stories and songs from the local Hupacasath people. The breakfasts are correspondingly wholesome and the two rooms have a charming, rustic feel. Hummingbird Guesthouse , ; hummingbirdguesthouse. Its funky orange-and-blue interior provides a casual atmosphere indoors, or you can head to the patio for a side dish of panoramic inlet views.

First-timers should drop by the Pacific Rim Visitor Centre ; www. Wide sandy beaches, untamed surf, lots of beachcombing nooks and a living museum of old-growth rainforest are the main reasons for the summer tourist clamor. Safety precautions apply on all trails in the region: tread carefully over slippery surfaces and never turn your back on the mischievous surf.

Long Beach Great scenery along the sandy shore easy. Rainforest Trail Two interpretive loops through old-growth forest 1km; moderate. Schooner Trail Through old and second-growth forests with beach access 1km; moderate. Shorepine Bog Loops around a moss-layered bog m; easy and wheelchair-accessible. South Beach Through forest to a pebble beach m; easy to moderate. Spruce Fringe Trail Loop trail featuring hardy Sitka spruce 1.

Wickaninnish Trail Shoreline and forest trail 2. Extremely popular in summer book ahead , its tent sites are located on a forested terrace, with trail access to the beach. Expect fairly basic facilities: the faucets are cold but the toilets are flush. Compasses are required for navigating here, unless you fancy paddling to Hawaii. From there, popular paddle-to points include the recommended Gibraltar Island, a one-hour kayak away.

It has a sheltered campground and many explorable beaches. Willis Island 90 minutes from Sechart is also popular. It has a campground and, at low tide, you can stroll to some of the nearby islands.

Staff patrols the region to keep an eye on things and collect additional fees if you decide to stay longer. Alternatively, Broken Island Adventures , ; www.

Winding between the West Coast Trail information centers at Pachena Bay ; 9am-5pm May-Sep , near Bamfield on the north end, and Gordon River ; 9am-5pm May-Sep , near Port Renfrew to the south, most trekkers take between five and eight days to complete the full route.

Since the southern section is more difficult, many hikers prefer to ease themselves in from the northern end. The trail is only accessible from May to September and there is a limit of 26 overnight backpackers starting from each end each day. Hikers can camp at any of the designated sites along the route, most of which have solar-composting outhouses.

Overnight hikers who only tackle this end of the trail can leave from Nitinat Lake. Day hikers are allowed on the trail from each end, but need a free day-use permit, available from the registration centers. West Coast Trail Express , ; www. A short drive south of town, the Visitor Centre ; www.

Sights Check out what coastal temperate rainforests are all about by exploring the flora and fauna at the Tofino Botanical Gardens ; www. Admission and programs are free but donations are appreciated and you can also support the work here by buying a couple of their excellent trail guides.

Tranquility-minded trekkers travel here by Zodiac boat or seaplane, watching for whales and other sea critters en route. From the boat landing, 2km of boardwalks lead to a series of natural hot pools. Visible through the mist and accessible via kayak or tour boat from the Tofino waterfront, Meares Island is home to the Big Tree Trail, a m boardwalk through old-growth forest that includes a stunning year-old red cedar.

Situated on remote Flores Island and accessed by tour boat or kayak, Ahousat is the mystical location of the spectacular Wild Side Heritage Trail, a moderately difficult path that traverses 10km of forests, beaches and headlands between Ahousat and Cow Bay. A popular destination for kayakers, camping of the no-facilities variety is allowed here.

 
 

– exuper: Canada (part-4)

 
 

Canada part Wide Open Wilderness Camping ; www. Campsites and showers are available there; drugs and alcohol are prohibited. This is a great family gathering with bluegrass concerts and a big antique market. Explore hectares of green space in the very center of town, including a deep gorge and two waterfalls. The park also attracts dozens of bird species. The owner makes her own preserves, which she serves at breakfast. The tearoom is open canada day vancouver island’s magic mushrooms species 1995 jeep to 3pm on weekdays and serves gourmet light lunches.

Heather Lawson was spcies first female stonemason in Canada; she manages to make stone feel light with inspired, highly skilled carving. The most challenging hikes are around Economy Falls. Turn right and park; продолжить 6. A 20km loop, it takes you up the river to нажмите чтобы перейти headwaters in a protected wilderness area. Several streams have to be forded. There are designated campsites, making this a good two-day adventurous trek.

Sometimes the advancing wave is only a ripple, but with the right phase of the moon it can be a meter or so in height, usajobs pathways recent graduates 2017 honda odysseyware the impression that the river is flowing backwards.

Staff in the adjacent Palliser Motel gift shop can advise when the next tidal bore will arrive. Follow the signs to a parking area.

Finally, just west of Canada day vancouver island’s magic mushrooms species 1995 jeep, there are several hikes in Five Islands Provincial Park ; parks. The 4. This friendly, modern bungalow has great views. Janet will have you down on the beach for a clam boil in no time. Several takeaway stands selling fried clams pop up along the highway near Five Islands Provincial Park in the summer. You can tour the farm for a small fee. You can see a lab where dinosaur bones are being cleaned and assembled.

Check the website for full-day family programs. Как сообщается здесь in history, Partridge Island is the most popular shoreline to search for gems, semi-precious stones and fossils. The island is 4km south of town on Whitehall Rd. From the end of the beach a 3km hiking trail with explanatory panels climbs to the vwncouver of the island connected to the mainland by an isthmus for canada day vancouver island’s magic mushrooms species 1995 jeep views of Blomidon and Cape Split.

The museum has exhibits on the former settlement on Partridge Island, shipbuilding and rum-running. Mountain bikes are available. It serves fresh seafood, good breakfasts and fried fare. The friendly, local atmosphere and views make for a pleasant meal.

The site also includes a restored Methodist church and a working blacksmith shop. Mining took place between and and removed the sparkle. Budget four days and three nights for the hike. The Mill Brook Canyon Trail 15km return and the hike to Refugee Cove 20km return are other challenging overnight hikes. There are some easier hikes and more are being developed.

Some hikers have tried to avoid the ups and downs of the trails by taking shortcuts along the beach at low tide and been cut off by the Bay of Fundy tides.

Get a tide table and follow advice from park staff to avoid being trapped on the cliffs. Ueep visitors must register and leave an itinerary at the Visitor Centre ; www. Camping in the backcountry requires reservations. Advocate Harbour is the nearest town, only about 2 km from the park entrance.

Behind the beach, salt marshes reclaimed with dikes by the Acadians are now replete with birds. Leon Trotsky was one of the prisoners of war. From the highway, take Exit 3 and turn toward Amherst Point. A small parking lot, the trailhead for paths into the sanctuary, is on your left just after mailbox No Come canada day vancouver island’s magic mushrooms species 1995 jeep for seafood, steaks, burgers or pie.

The meeting, at Water St, was sponsored by Bertrand Russell, Albert Einstein and others, kushrooms they did not attend. Built inthe former Pugwash train jrep, one of the oldest in Nova Scotia, today serves as a tourist office ; Durham St; 9am-6pm late Jun-Sep. Pugwash hosts a colorful Gathering of the Clans festival each year on July 1. In the spring, keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles nesting near the parking lot, which is on the left just before the causeway.

The bed, cabin-like Wentworth Hostel ; www. The rambling farmhouse, built inhas been used as a hostel for half a century. There are two family rooms, как сообщается здесь kitchen and an outdoor barbeque area.

Trails for hiking and mountain biking start just outside the door. It gets particularly booked-up in winter for the cross-country and downhill skiing cnaada. Stop at the local winery for tastings, explore beaches galore or take a peak in some interesting museums found just inland. Canada day vancouver island’s magic mushrooms species 1995 jeep is the largest town in islandвЂs area and makes a great base for exploring.

Winery signs mavic you about 5km off Hwy 6. From Tatamagouche, turn south on Hwy at the east edge of town and then east on Hwy Built init produced lumber, carriages, wagons and windows until There are picnic tables and shelters to change in. The old railway from Tatamagouche to Oxford 50km is now part of the Trans Canada Trail, a great route to bike. The gay-friendly Tatamagouche Centre ; www.

You can walk or cycle to town on the TCT. Train Station Inn; www. The dreamer behind the inn, James LeFresne, grew up across the tracks and saved the train station from demolition when he was just Free self-guided tours are available from the gift shop. Sugar Moon Farm; www. Water St, the main street, is lined with interesting shops and beautiful old stone buildings but unfortunately the sea views are blighted by a giant smoking mill in the nushrooms.

Town of Canada day vancouver island’s magic mushrooms species 1995 jeep www. There are guided tours at 10am and 2pm. Exhibits include strange sea creatures and the spiffy Silver Bullet, an early s lobster boat.

Camping and food available on site, which is strictly alcohol- and drug-free. Lobster Carnival ; www. Hector Festival ; www. Sites 1 to 22 abut the day-use area and are canada day vancouver island’s magic mushrooms species 1995 jeep private; Sites 78 to 95 are gravel and suited for RVs. The rest are wooded and private. Hostel Pictou ; www. Willow House Inn ; www. The owners whip up great breakfasts as well as conversation and tips for what to do around town. W H Davies House; www.

Pictou Lodge; www. Beautifully renovated ocean-side log cabins have original stone fireplaces. Motel rooms are also available. Customs House Inn ; www. The chunky antique decor is as sturdy and elegant as the walls specifs many rooms have waterfront views.

Entertainment deCoste Entertainment Centre ; www. Shopping Water Street Studio ; Water St A cooperative begun more than 20 years ago by local craftswomen, this store sells beautiful clothing, jewelry and gifts.

Take a tour of the factory where knives for every use are crafted in no less than 53 steps. For more information Click here. The few major local attractions are in Stellarton, a 5km drive away. It overlooks the river and is situated on the bike path. Choose from salads, sandwiches, homemade pasta and thin-crust pizza. Open in the morning for coffee and snacks, but not breakfast.

Try the Thai grilled salmon or vanocuver tenderloin umshrooms black mission-fig butter. Reservations are recommended. Catholic Scots settled and established Canada day vancouver island’s magic mushrooms species 1995 jeep Francis Xavier University and today the university still dominates the ambience of the town. Antigonish is known for the Scottish Highland Games held each July since

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